Something new and creative: a Metro Wine Map of France

Do you know that it's only in 1931 that the first schematic subway map was designed by English engineering draftsman Harry Beck? Before that, we had route maps that were solely based on geography. They were lacking clarity and had many overcrowded areas. Schematic maps are based on topology and therefore show a simplified, hightly stylized network of stations that is much easier to understand.

So can we apply the same logic to wine regions and appellations to simplify and clarify regional and geographical concepts to beginners? Dr. David Gissen, professor at the California College of the Arts, thinks so and has recently published a Metro Wine Map of France.

Dr. David Gissen is a historian and theorist of architecture and urbanism but he is also a wine lover who, after drinking a bottle of 2009 Morgon Domaine Lapierre at Chez Panisse, wanted to learn more about wine and its relationship with particular philosophies and places.

In a recent interview, Gissen explains what motivated him to design his Metro map.

“I was just very frustrated with the fact that some basic ideas about the relationships between wine and geography that seemed so simple to me, after my own tastings, were not actually expressed simply anywhere. Part of the problem is the way the geographical description of French wine relies on a very literal languages of maps. What I mean by that is that if you look at almost any book on French wine, the maps look like the kind of thing that an explorer would use. They're extremely literal, cartographic views, so that all the regions are drawn with very precise jagged-line boundaries, and you're supposed to understand that this particular terroir stops just below this particular Autoroute in France, for example, and so on.”

“My feeling was that you could explain some very basic geographical ideas and principles about French wine if you used a visual language that was relational and condensed. To me, that means the language of the subway map.”

If you want to find the “best subway stop from which to embark on your own journey of wine exploration”, you can get the map here. And if you want to learn more about Gissen's interesting perspectives on concrete vinification, wine glass shapes, terroir, and the re-framing of wine using an urban aesthetics, read the full interview.

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For Beaujolais, a "Villages" is the way to go

It is unfortunate that over the years, the wines of beaujolais have developed a negative reputation among consumers that tend to associate them with the sweet cotton candy and banana gum flavors of Beaujolais Nouveau. That's too bad because wines from the Villages appellation or one of the 10 Crus are definitively worth checking out.


Beaujolais Wine Region

Beaujolais is a large wine region located south of Burgundy, along the Saône River between the towns of Mâcon and Lyon. The Beaujolais AOC is the broadest appellation covering 60 villages, with nearly half of the crop being released just a few weeks after harvest and sold as Beaujolais Nouveau.

Beaujolais-Villages covers 39 villages located in northern Beaujolais. It is a more hilly region with soils containing more granite and schist. Due to better growing conditions, the Beaujolais-Villages wines have more complexity and depth.

The finest wines come from the 10 Crus of Beaujolais located in the foothills of the Beaujolais mountains. Seven of them (Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié) relate to actual villages. Côte de Brouilly is grown on the volcanic hillsides of Mont Brouilly and Brouilly is found in the flatter area around it. Moulin-à-Vent, a more serious wine with great aging potential, is named for the last remaining windmill in the Beaujolais.

Ninety-eight percent of the area is planted with Gamay, a grape with a thin skin and low in tannins. Gamay ripened two weeks earlier than Pinot Noir and is less difficult to cultivate. It produces a light wine with a bright and fruity style.

I recently tasted the 2008 Beaujolais-Villages Louis Jadot that was sent to me by Kobrand Corporation. Maison Louis Jadot is the largest Negociant in Beaujolais that purchases grapes instead of juice or must in order to keep full control over winemaking decisions. Half of the wine is matured in oak barrels and the other half in stainless steel. The final cuvée contains up to 40% of declassified wines from the various crus of Beaujolais.

The wine had a bright color with red cherry aromas on the nose. On the palate, it was light-bodied and juicy leaving a clean and fresh aftertaste. Try it with a Frisée aux Lardons Salad, one of the classic Bistro specialties from Lyon.

Now for your February 14th dinner, why not share a bottle of Saint-Amour with your Valentine?

Related post:
•  Visiting Fleurie in Beaujolais

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A tale of three Rosés

Just before going on vacation, I received three bottles of Rosés from the Kobrand Corporation. We enjoyed them with friends one warm evening with grilled steaks and a nice, big salad.

The lightest of the three was the 2008 Beaujolais Rosé Louis Jadot. The Beaujolais region has a long tradition of producing rosé, a wine made from Gamay like the red version. For this Rosé, the Gamay grape is vinified by being immediately pressed like a white wine after limited skin contact. The wine is then put into stainless steel vats. Showing a delicate pink color, it is fresh, dry, citrusy with a crisp finish, and perfectly pleasant as a light aperitif.

The spiciest was the 2008 Wild Rock Vin Gris Rosé. A blend of Merlot, with some Malbec, Syrah and Pinot Noir, the wine comes from Hawke's Bay, a major wine-producing region on the east coast of New Zealand's North Island. Hawke's Bay enjoys a dry and temperate climate with long, hot summers and cool winters. Vin Gris means gray wine and is another term for Rosé. The wine exhibits a medium pink color and aromas of honey and red berry on the nose. It is medium dry on the palate and slighly fizzy with a juicy finish.

The most serious one (and the one that worked best with the steaks) was the 2008 Tavel Château d'Aquéria. The Tavel appellation is located in the southern Rhône Valley, north of Avignon, and makes only Rosé wines. This one, produced by the Château d'Aquéria, is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mouvèdre, Cinsault, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Picpoul, grown on sandy hillsides and clay. After being completely destemmed, grapes are put into maceration vats for 24 to 48 hours. Grape varieties are then blended two by two for greater aromatic complexity. Then the juice is drawn from the vats and fermentation takes place. All the grape varieties are then blended together and age for several months before being bottled at the estate. The wine has a light red color with aromas of red berries on the nose. On the palate, it is dry, well structured, with fresh mineral notes and a nice complexity on the finish.

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Visiting Fleurie in Beaujolais

Between July and August, millions of Europeans take the Autoroute du Soleil to reach the beach resorts of the Mediterranean, but few care to stop and visit the vine covered hills of Beaujolais just south of the Mâcon exit. They are too eager to leave the heavily congested Lyons bypass motorway behind.

It's a pity. There are so many charming villages quietly nested in the hills of Beaujolais. One of them is Fleurie, a small village perched at about 800 feet and overlooking the Saone river valley. From the main square, a narrow winding road leads to a chapel built in 1875 in honor of the Madonna to thank her for protecting the vineyards. From the chapel, there is a superb view of the entire region. The Gamay vines growing on the granite hillside surrounding the chapel are owned by the Desprès family of the nearby Domaine de la Madone.


Driving up to the Chapelle de la Madone


Fleurie and the Saone valley from the Chapelle de la Madone

During our one-night stay in Fleurie, we had the chance to visit that excellent domain and here are the wines that we tasted:

• 2007 Fleurie Domaine de la Madone Tradition: made to be drunk young. The average vine age is 40 years. Garnet color, peppery nose, light-bodied and pleasantly fruity.

• 2007 Fleurie Domaine du Niagara: from a different estate called Niagara and produced by Arnaud Deprès, the son of the family. Deep color, intense aromas of red and black currant on the nose, some tannins on the palate, rather assertive.

• 2007 Fleurie Domaine de la Madone Grille Midi: the Grille Midi is a granite amphitheatre bathed in sunshine. The average vine age is 65 years. Peppery nose, firm backbone on the palate, some tannins, lengthy finish, ageworthy.

• 2007 Fleurie Domaine de la Madone La Madone Cuvée Vieilles Vignes: from the La Madone vineyard, vines averaging 80 years of age, the oldest vine being 116 years. A lot of fruit on the nose, rich and velvety on the palate, ageworthy.


The wines of the Domaine de la Madone

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Still on the road...

But I'll be back soon!


The hills of Beaujolais

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