Monday, May 05, 2008

A pink meal: Pasta alle Cinque Pi with rosé

I am always looking for ultra simple but tasty recipes, so here is the latest one that I found: Pasta alle Cinque Pi, a recipe that one of my friends of Swiss Italian origin has showed me recently.

The sauce is called cinque Pi because it is made of five (cinque) ingredients, all starting with the letter P in Italian: Panna (cream), Pomodoro (tomato), Prezzemolo (parsley), Parmigiano (parmesan), and Pepe (pepper). And it is really easy to make: you heat the cream in a saucepan and then add the tomato paste, parmesan, chopped parsley, and pepper. Mix with pasta and serve with grated parmesan cheese.

With the pasta, we tasted a Rosé from Château Routas in Provence, whose color matched remarkably well the cream and tomato based sauce.

Owned by David Murray, a wealthy Scottish entrepreneur, Château Routas is located in the Var region, between the Mediterranean coast and the foothills of the Alps. The estate has 40 hectares (99 acres) of vines planted with Chardonnay, Viognier, and Ugni Blanc for the white and Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet, and Carignan for the red and the rosé (which constitutes the majority of the production).

The 2006 Château Routas Rouvière Rosé is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah. It has a bright salmon pink color and a delicate nose of strawberry and white pepper. On the palate, it is dry and crisp with notes of red berry flavors and a slightly mineral finish. Simple but tasty like the recipe, and exactly what a rosé is supposed to be.



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Tuesday, April 29, 2008

The 2004 Sequia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

This bottle was sent to me by the Kobrand Corporation, the wine and spirit importer and distributor. When I received it, I became curious about the wine as I realized that I had never visited the Sequoia Grove winery, although it is right on Highway 29, just 1 mile north of Rutherford.

Family-founded in 1980 on the site of an 1850 farmhouse, Sequoia Grove is named for the grove of giant redwood trees that surround the winery. Today, this boutique winery produces small quantities of premium wines and specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon.

Michael Trujillo is the winery’s longtime winemaker. “In my winemaking I strive for balance and varietal character to come through,” says Michael of his winemaking philosophy on the winery website. “I don’t get carried away with the big, high-alcohol wine trend that influences much of the industry today. I strive for richness and balance from start to finish. This is the way I make wine.”

Under new ownership, the winery has recently upgraded its winemaking facility with state-of-the-art fermenters and processing equipment. A completely subterranean cellar —the first in the Valley— maintains a year-round temperature of 58°F. The fruit is sourced from the winery's estate vineyard in Rutherford as well as from renowned Napa growers such as Gary Morisoli, Andy Beckstoffer, and others.

The grapes for the 2004 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley were sourced from Rutherford (50%), Oakville (30%), Atlas Peak (15%), and Napa (5%). The wine is pure Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in American oak (38% new) for 18 months. It has a deep inky color and an engaging nose of black fruit and licorice. On the palate, it is concentrated without being jammy, with substantial tannins, some good acidity, and notes of vanilla and mint on the finish. Overall, I find it rather well balanced for such a young wine, although I would cellar it for at least 5 more years, but that's my personal taste. In the meantime, decant it for at least 1 hour and enjoy it with grilled ribeye steaks with Mediterranean rub and oven wedge fries.

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Thursday, April 17, 2008

Russian River Pinot Gris: a fresh alternative to Chardonnay

Summer is on the horizon and the white wine season is approaching. So why not trying to seriously explore California alternatives to Chardonnay? Take Pinot Gris for example. It is a mutant clone of Pinot Noir that originated in Burgundy in the middle ages. Nowadays, it is a major grape in Alsace producing full-bodied, rich white wines. It is also prominent in Italy's northeast regions of Veneto and Friuli where it is called Pinot Grigio. The Italian version is usually lighter and crispier than in Alsace.

Although Pinot Gris is a relatively newcomer to the Russian River Valley, it seems particularly well suited to the region's cool climate. Already, over 140 acres of Pinot Gris are planted in the area, which produces wines more in the Alsatian style than in the Italian Pinot Grigio style.

I recently had the opportunity to taste the 2005 J Pinot Gris Russian River Valley. The wine is produced by J Vineyards & Winery, a winery offering top-rated Sparkling Wine, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris from the Russian River Valley. Showing a pale straw color, it had a fresh and citrusy nose. On the palate, it was lively, slightly creamy, with notes of apple, honey and caramel. Try it, it should work really well with a dish of Pacific Island Fish in Coconut Sauce.

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Thursday, April 10, 2008

Blind Tasting of Pinot Noir from Los Carneros and Anderson Valley

From time to time, we get together with three other couples for a blind wine tasting party. These parties are always a lot of fun and easy to organize. The hosting couple cooks while the rest of the group brings bottles according to a chosen theme. Before the tasting, we hide the bottles in homemade purple velvet bags and randomly pin letters to them so that nobody can guess their identity. At the end of the dinner, the wines are ranked and then unveiled, with sometimes some surprising results!

The theme of our last gathering was Pinot Noir from Los Carneros and Anderson Valley, two of California's coolest wine regions and well renowned for their Pinot Noirs. Here are the wines that we tasted:

• 2004 Ancien Pinot Noir Mink Vineyard Napa Valley: Ancien Wines is a winery dedicated to Burgundian varietals that produces small lots of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Mink Vineyard is actually not in Carneros but in Napa, an appellation better known for Cabernet than Pinot. But according to the winery's release notes, the climate in this relatively unknown area east of the city of Napa is similar to Carneros and the soil is unique — made up of a rocky/cobbly alluvial with underlying volcanic tufa. Our notes: dark color, sweet nose of cherry, strawberry, vanilla, and herbs. On the palate, liquorish, spicy, with some acidity. Medium finish. Overall, we enjoyed the wine and ranked it third with 15 points.

• 2005 Saintsbury Pinot Noir Los Carneros: Saintsbury Vineyard is a California Pinot Noir pioneer. With the release in 1981 of 2000 cases of Carneros Pinot Noir, the winery's mission has been to demonstrate that world-class Pinot Noir could made in California, especially in the Carneros District. Because it is bordered by the San Pablo Bay at the Southernmost end of the Napa and Sonoma valleys, Los Carneros is much cooler than the rest of Napa and Sonoma. In terms of wine style, Saintsbury emphasizes balance of tannin and acidity, as well as power and elegance without leaning toward the burnt jam style of Pinot that is sometimes found in California. Our notes: medium red, fresh cherry nose, notes of brown sugar, buttered toast, blueberry, and fig. One the palate, lively, earthy, smoky, Burgundian with a good mineral finish. The wine was everybody's favorite and came first with 10 points.

• 2004 Fotinos Pinot Noir Los Carneros: founded by a Greek family, Fotinos Vineyards is located in the heart of the Carneros District of Napa Valley. Since 1969, it is dedicated to growing Pinot Noir grapes exclusively. The greek coin on the label dates back to 480 B.C. with an engraving of Artemis, the twin sister of Apollo and the Greek goddess of the forests and the moon. For the Fotinos family, she represents the beauty of nature. Our notes: medium color, nose a bit closed with notes of fresh cherries. On the palate, young, some acidity, a bit green, mineral, hints of sardines, tannins on the finish. We gave 18 points to this wine, which finished in fifth position.

• 2005 Adrian Fog Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley: Adrian Fog is an exclusive producer of single vineyard Pinot Noir. It selects vineyards based on their cool climate, orientation to the sun, clonal differences, and age of the vines. Clones and blocks are picked, fermented, and aged separately. Picking, racking, and bottling are scheduled as close to the night of the full moon as possible and the winery recommends to drink Adrian Fog wine on the night of a full moon to enjoy it's full seductive essence. Unfortunately, maybe the night of our tasting was only a new moon, maybe the bottle was flawed for some reason, but we didn't like it at all. Our notes: dark color a bit cloudy, subdued, herbal nose. On the palate, acidic, green notes of cucumber pickles and sand gravel. The wine got 30 points, which placed it far behind the others.

• 2004 Londer Estate Grown Pinot Noir Anderson Valley: Londer Vineyards is located in the southwestern corner of Mendocino County, one of California's coolest areas. Adjacent to the Pacific Ocean, the vineyards are covered with a blanket of fog most summer nights. Then later during the day, the fog burns off and it becomes sunny and dry. With these conditions, the grapes slowly develop and ripen, which is ideal for growing varietals such as Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer, and Chardonnay. The winery has 15 acres of Pinot Noir and an acre of Gewurztraminer mostly on south facing hills. Our notes: dark color, sweet fruity nose with notes of vanilla and burnt sugar. On the palate, some tasters found it nicely balanced, while for others it was tannic, alcoholic, aggressive. The wine finished in fourth place with 16 points.

• 2004 ZD Reserve Pinot Noir Los Carneros: founded in 1969, ZD Wines is owned by the deLeuze family. The ZD style is to craft rich, flavorful wines that reflect the varietal character of the grape. This wine comes from ZD's own deLeuze Family Vineyard in Los Carneros. The vineyard is dry farmed and has been farmed organically since 1996. It was officially certified in 1999. Prior to its release, the wine was aged for 15 months in small French oak barrels with minimal racking. Our notes: dark color, fragrant nose of sweet currant, notes of caramel, chocolate and clove. On the palate, rich, full-bodied, although not too pinot-ish, medium finish. Overall, the wine was very well received and was placed in second position with 12 points.

Previous blind tastings:
•  Blind Tasting of Grenache-based wines
•  Chardonnay Blind Tasting
•  Pinot Noir Blind Tasting

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Wednesday, April 02, 2008

WBW #44: can Chinon wines age?

Our friend Pierre, who is originally from the Loire Valley, often tells us great stories about how he would drink old red wines from the Loire with his family, and how delicious they were.

So for the 44th edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday (the theme is French Cabernet Franc), hosted this month by Gary Vaynerchuk from Wine Library, I decided to taste a 1995 Chinon from Couly-Dutheil that had been laying in my cellar for a while. Additionally, I opened a 2002 from the same producer, just to compare the two wines.

Couly-Dutheil is a major Loire producer that has been making wine in Chinon since 1921. Over the time, the domaine has aquired several different vineyards mostly planted with Cabernet Franc with only a few hectares of Chenin Blanc. While most growers in Chinon make blends from several lots, Couly Dutheil prefers to vinify each vineyard seperately in order to produce wines with a distinctive character.

My 2002 was from the Clos de l'Echo, one of the most famous vineyards in Chinon that was purchased by the Couly-Dutheil family in 1925. The land used to belong to Antoine Rabelais, the father of François Rabelais, the famed 15th Century writer. It is a south-facing vineyard located just behind Chinon's large ruined castle. The soil is clay and quartz with limestone (called tuffeau in the Loire Valley) underneath. It is a unique terroir that produces concentrated and complex wines.

The 1995 was from the Clos de l'Olive, which was bought by the domaine in 1951. It is also a great terroir with a southern exposure, soils of clay and limestone, and planted with old vines, the oldest being 100 years old.



The 1995 Clos de l'Olive had a brick-orange color and a sweet fruity nose with peppery notes. On the palate, it was rather light-bodied with distinctive smoky flavors. Tasted blind, I think I would have mistook it for an old Burgundy.

The 2002 Clos de l'Echo had a deeper garnet color. The nose was more assertive with sweet berry flavors and notes of bell pepper. On the palate, the wine was medium-bodied, juicy with good tannins, followed by a persistent mineral finish.

So can Chinon wines age? I have to say that the 2002 was my favorite but the 1995 was charming. I know I should have invited my friend Pierre to taste the wines, he would have been delighted, but tonight is Wednesday, it is not really party time, and everybody has to work tomorrow!

Previous WBW posts:
•  WBW #43: 2004 Chinon Domaine de la Noblaie Les Chiens-Chiens, a comfort wine
•  WBW #42: a Rosso Conero in just seven words
•  WBW #41: the exciting wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia region

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Thursday, March 27, 2008

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre or La Grola, which one to choose?

Looking for an Italian red from the Veneto region, I found these two wines from one of Veneto's top producers, at my local
Beverages and More!
store: the 2004 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre and the 2004 Allegrini La Grola. Since I could not decide which one to buy, I bought the two wines. Then later, we tasted them side by side in order to determine which one we liked the best.

Although both are from the same producer, the two wines seemed pretty different, on paper at least. The producer is Allegrini, a family estate making wines in the Valpolicella Classica area since the XVI century. Valpolicella or val polis cellae, meaning the valley of many wine cellars, is located in the Veneto region, north west of the City of Verona. The climate is generally mild and temperate. All of Allegrini's wines are produced from estate-grown fruit.

The Allegrini Palazzo della Torre comes from a vineyard of the same name, beautifully terraced with dry stone walls. The wine is a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Sangiovese made in an innovative ripasso style: 70% of the grapes are vinified immediately after the harvest, while the remaining 30% are left to dry until the end of December. They are then vinified and re-fermented with the wine from the fresh grapes.

The Allegrini La Grola comes from the La Grola vineyard, a 24.26 hectare vineyard located on a hill that dominates the entire Valpolicella area. It has a mixed terroir of alluvial origin, with volcanic soils at the foot of the vineyard, extending up the slope. The hill is well exposed to the sun and enjoys an ideal microclimate thanks to the influence of Lake Garda to the west and north and Mt. Baldo (Verona's highest mountain), which protects the area from the cold winds. The wine is a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Syrah, and Sangiovese aged in French oak and does not use dried grapes.

Well, could we find any difference between the two wines? They had a dark red color and a nose of sweet plums, raisins, and spices. On the palate they were smooth and luscious with some nice acidity and a lingering finish. Was the La Grola slightly more aromatic and fuller-bodied? Hard to say, but we liked them both.

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Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Is your nose worth any $$$?

I think my olfactory abilities are pretty average. Of course, I love to taste good wines and appreciate the rich flavors of good food and I would be really sad if one day I lose the sense of smell. But I am not planning to do anything about it.

Some wine professionals have a different opinion: their nose nose is essential for their work.

“I thought it must be a horror to lose your smell,” says Ilja Gort, winemaker at Château de la Garde in Bordeaux. “It would mean that you cannot taste wine anymore.”

USA Today reports that Ilja Gort has insured his nose for $8 million.

“The custom policy covers Gort for the loss of either his nose or his sense of smell ” reports the newspaper, “and has some conditions for protecting his nose. Among other things, he is barred from riding a motorcycle or working as a knife thrower's assistant or fire-breather.

And he can't be a boxer.”


Here is the complete story: Winemaker's nose insured for $8M

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Thursday, March 13, 2008

Mai Tai is not the only option with Hawaiian food

What do you drink with Hawaiian food? Usually tropical drinks and beer. At least, that's what is typically served with traditional Hawaiian food. But my friend Laurence had prepared an Hawaiian luau menu of Lomi-Lomi Salmon and Kalua Pig and I was supposed to bring a wine that would work well with the food.

I happily found a 2006 Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon, a wine from the Margaret River appellation in Western Australia. Surrounded by water on three sides, the region enjoys a maritime climate and is therefore much cooler than some other notable wine regions in South Australia and New South Wales. It is also home to some of my favorite Australian wines. The producer is Cape Mentelle, one of the first wineries to be established in the Margaret River region in the 70s. It is now owned by the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton group.

The wine had a light straw color and a zesty nose of citrus and tropical fruit. The palate was medium-bodied, aromatic, and refreshing, with a nice and crisp finish.

Much better than a Mai Tai, in my opinion.


Lomi-Lomi Salmon



Kalua Pig, baked in the oven


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Thursday, March 06, 2008

WBW #43: 2004 Chinon Domaine de la Noblaie Les Chiens-Chiens, a comfort wine

I just came back from a trip to France yesterday. So last night, I was tired, completely jet lagged, and not sure I could stay awake for dinner. But a glass of the delicious 2004 Chinon Domaine de la Noblaie Les Chiens-Chiens raised my spirits up and brought my energy back. I was even up until 9pm!

The Domaine de la Noblaie is one of the oldest winery in Chinon. The 40 acre vineyard, planted with Cabernet Franc (95%) and Chenin Blanc (5%), is surrounded by a forest that protects the vines from cold winds and occasional spring frosts. The soil is mostly lime and clay. The winemaker is Jérôme Billard, the son of the owners, an oenologist with extensive experience and who has worked for Pétrus in Pomerol, Dominus Estate in Napa Valley and in New Zealand.

The Chiens-Chiens is a 100% Cabernet Franc cuvée made for export only. It shows a deep ruby color and a nose of bell pepper with gamey notes. On the palate, it offers a good balance of acidity and tannins. With strong bell pepper flavors, the wine is not fruity at all but it is very pleasant, refreshing, and extremely food friendly. The perfect comfort wine.

Comfort Wines: that's the theme of the 43rd edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday, hosted this month by Joel from the Wine Life Today Blog.

Joel, sorry I am 1 day late but thanks for hosting!

Previous WBW posts:
•  WBW #42: a Rosso Conero in just seven words
•  WBW #41: the exciting wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia region
•  WBW #39: a wine from Silver Burgundy, the 2005 Viré-Clessé Maison Chanson


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Thursday, February 21, 2008

2004 Château de Riquewihr Gewürztraminer Les Sorcières: not so wicked!

Florence and Pierre, our friends from Chicago, decided to come and visit us for Presidents' day weekend. As usual, they arrived like Santa Claus, with suitcases full of great wines and goodies. Needless to say, we were eager to taste what they had brought and the first evening after their arrival, we opened a 2004 Dopff & Irion Château de Riquewihr Gewürztraminer Les Sorcières.

Dopff & Irion is a leading Alsace producer in the medieval wine village of Riquewihr, one of the most beautiful villages in France. The family owns the Château de Riquewihr, a 27 hectares estate with vineyards on the best hillsides near the village. The 5 hectare vineyard Les Sorcières (The Witches) is located on a site where witches were burned at the stake during the Middle Ages. It is solely planted with Gewürztraminer on clay, marl and limestone soils.

The wine showed a bright golden color and an expressive nose of litchi fruit and mango. The palate was slightly sweet, although fresh, lively, and racy, with aromas of stone fruits on the finish. We drank it à l'apéritif, with a chicken liver terrine made by our other friend and great cook Laurence. Simply awesome!

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Thursday, February 07, 2008

Australian Pinot Noirs: how good are they?

In the past couple of years, I have come across several noteworthy New Zealand Pinot Noirs but what about the Australian versions of the wine? They are still not as easy to find in the US and therefore, it is hard to determine their quality. But I finally found one and so here I am, with a bottle of 2005 Kooyong Massale Pinot Noir.

Kooyong is a small winery located on the northern end of the Mornington Peninsula, 80km south of Melbourne. The Mornington Peninsula in southern Victoria has a cool, maritime climate that is particularly noted for Pinot Noir. The winery is planted to 30 hectares of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris vineyards, all north-facing to maximize sun exposure. The best sections of each vineyard are first reserved for the Single Vineyard bottlings, and then for the Kooyong Estate blends. The remaining sections are used to produce the Massale Pinot Noir and the Clonale Chardonnay.

Well, even if the Massale Pinot Noir is not the winery's premier offering, it is a very decent and reasonably priced wine. The wine has a deep garnet color and a nice Pinot nose with earthy aromas and notes of black fruits. On the palate, it is round and juicy with an aftertaste of smoke and cinnamon spices.

Mornington Peninsula: I wish I could find more wines from this region, even visit the place. Have you noticed how pristine the beaches are?

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Thursday, January 31, 2008

Champagne Tasting

In December, we had our traditional annual Champagne tasting. Tasting several Champagnes at the same time is a great way to learn and compare these wines that can have so many distinctive flavors. During the evening, we tasted seven different wines, including some made exclusively from Chardonnay, some exclusively from one single harvest, some exclusively from Premier/Grand Cru vineyards, the last one being a Champagne Rosé.

Champagne is a sparkling wine from the Champagne region produced with a carbonation method called méthode champenoise or méthode traditionnelle: after primary fermentation and bottling, a second fermentation is induced by adding yeast and sugar in the bottle. The bottle is then sealed and the wine continues to age for a minimum of 1.5 years to add complex toasty and yeasty flavors. When the aging process is complete, the dead yeast cells are removed and the bottle is corked.

Champagne is typically a blend of the three official varietals of Champagne: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. They are generally assembled from different vineyards and harvests. Still red wine from Champagne can be added to produce a Champagne rosé. Blanc de Noirs is a white sparkling wine produced entirely from black grapes. Conversely, Blanc de Blancs is made only from Chardonnay grapes and mostly produced in the Côte des Blancs.



The wines we tasted:

• Champagne Zoémie de Sousa Brut Cuvée Merveille. Champagne de Sousa is a 5.5 hectare property located in the heart of the prestigious Côte des Blancs with some vineyards classified as Grands Crus. Planting is 40% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier, and 50% Chardonnay. Erick de Sousa who has been managing the Domaine since 1986, is now part of the absolute elite of Champagne growers-producers and his production is now been sought out by many gourmet restaurants. My notes: aromatic nose, fruity, assertive bubbles, good acidity. Great for the aperitif.

• Champagne Philippe Gonet Brut Blanc de Blancs: Champagne Philippe Gonet is a family champagne house with 19 hectares of vineyards in the heart of the Cotes de Blancs that are farmed using sustainable agricultural methods. This cuvée is 100% Chardonnay from the 2004 and 2003 harvests. Half the blend is made of fruits sourced from Grand Cru vineyards. My notes: light color, sour apple aromas on the nose, fine bubbles, crisp acidity. I found this one more mono-dimensional than the other Champagnes.

• Champagne Franck Bonville Brut Prestige Blanc de Blancs: Champagne Franck Bonville is a family enterprise making Champagne from fruit grown in the Grand Cru villages of Avize and Oger. This wine is a blend of the 2002, 2000 and 1998 vintages, all sourced from old vines from the estate Grand Cru vineyards. My notes: lighltly colored, aromatic nose, rich complexity on the palate, mineral finish. This crowd pleaser was indeed the winner of the evening!

• Champagne Leclerc Briant Les Crayères: Champagne Leclerc Briant cultivates 30 hectares of vineyards between the Montagne de Reims and the Marne valley, using biodynamic farming methods. The maturing cellars are made of over 1 km of galleries dug in solid chalk 30 metres underground. This blend is 38% Pinot Noir, 37% Meunier and 25% Chardonnay sourced from a single vineyard called Les Crayères (The chalk mine), an exceptional terroir: vines have deep roots in that very shallow soil followed by a deep subsoil layer of chalk. My notes: our first bottle was unfortunately flat, the second one was much better. Light golden color, apple cider aromas on the nose, a toasty and winey palate, dominated by Pinot flavors.

• Champagne Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut: when no sugar is added during the second fermentation in the bottle, the Champagne is labeled Ultra Brut. This cuvée is produced by Champagne Laurent-Perrier, the largest family-owned Champagne House. The blend is 55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir sourced from Grand cru vineyards, and exclusively coming from very ripe harvests, in this case, 1995. A rigorous selection ensures that only grapes with both high sugar levels and low acidity are used. My notes: forward fruits on the nose with mineral notes, very distintive palate with a lot of depth, long finish. One of my favorite wines of the evening.

• 2000 Champagne Louis Roederer Vintage Brut: when the harvest is exceptional, a Millesimé or Vintage wine is declared. A Vintage cuvée is made with fruits from a single harvest and has to mature for at least 3 years in bottle. This wine is produced by Champagne Louis Roederer, one of the largest remaining independent Champagne Houses, owned by the same family since its foundation in 1776. It is a blend of 67% Pinot Noir and 33% Chardonnay sourced almost exclusively from the Roederer estate Grand and Premier Cru vineyards. My notes: expressive fruity nose, good acidity, clean flavors on the finish, but I have to say, I was slightly disappointed by this wine.

• Champagne de Castellane Brut Rosé: Champagne de Castellane was founded in 1895 by Vicomte Florens De Castellane, member of one of the oldest noble families in France. This wine is a blend of three grapes dominated by Pinot Noir, 15% of which being still red wine. My notes: light salmon color, pleasant fruity nose, fresh and delicate palate, slightly bitter finish.

For our next tasting event, we'll be pairing cheese and wine. Soft, hard, blue, cow, goat, sheep cheese: which wines will work the best with all these cheeses? Stay tuned!

Previous wine club tastings:
•  Tasting the wines of South America
•  Tasting Summer Wines from around the Mediterranean Sea
•  Guess the wine tasting
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Thursday, January 24, 2008

Après-ski: 1995 Vosne-Romanée Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur

Last weekend, we went skiing with our friends Virginie and Christophe. Saturday was a beautiful day, sunny and cold and the snow was pretty good. At the end of the day though, we were tired and hungry and ready for a hearty meal. We were also eager to taste the 1995 Vosne-Romanée Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur that Christophe had brought.

Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur is one of the three wine estates owned by the Gros family, wine growers in Vosne-Romanée since 1830. Bernard Gros, who runs the domaine, is one of the top growers in Burgundy. His approach to wine-making is traditional. The vines are 10-20 years old on average, yields are strictly limited to obtain the required density and concentration of fruit, and the wines are lightly fined, but not filtered.

1995 was a fine vintage for reds in Burgundy. They were expected to age beautifully with velvety tannins and a good balance. This wine was no exception. It showed a bright light cherry color and an expressive nose of sweet raspberry. The palate was all finesse with aromas of forest berry fruits, a smooth mouthfeel and a vibrant acidity. Now we feel so lucky to have such good friends!

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Wednesday, January 16, 2008

WBW #41: the exciting wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia region

I can't believe today is already Wine Blogging Wednesday, the first of 2008! Time flies! This is the 41st edition of this popular event and it is hosted this month by Jack and Joanne of Fork & Bottle. They believe that Friuli, this month's theme, has become the most exciting wine region in the world. I almost agree: I think it is one of the most exciting wine producing regions and I really love the Friulian white wines.

The problem is that it is not easy to buy a white wine from Friuli that is not from the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio but I did find one that looked interesting: the 2005 Marco Felluga Collio Bianco Molamatta. It is a blend of local grapes — Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla , and Pinot Bianco — from the Collio DOC. Collio is naturally protected by the Alps on the North and open to the Adriatic Sea on the South, and it is generally considered Friuli's finest wine producing area. The Marco Felluga estate has been making wines since the 19th century and Marco Felluga is today one of the leading producers in the region.

The wine kept its promises. It had a bright golden yellow color and a rich nose of white blossom, honey, and pear. On the palate, it was full-bodied with mouth-coating flavors and a sappy mineral finish. Superb with baked spice-rubbed salmon fillets.

Joanne and Jack, I am sure you'll get many fine wines for your round-up but this one is highly recommended!

Previous WBW posts:
•  WBW #39: a wine from Silver Burgundy, the 2005 Viré-Clessé Maison Chanson
•  WBW #38: 2001 Periquita Classico
•  WBW #37: Hello Teroldego!

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Monday, January 14, 2008

Congrats Rebecca and all the Menu for Hope winners!

Congratulations to all the winners of this year's Menu for Hope and particularly Rebecca Bennett who wan the prize donated by Purple Liquid, a Santa Cruz Mountains Wine Sampler.

Thanks to the generosity of wine and food blog readers from around the world, Menu for Hope has raised $91,188.00 this year — a 50% increase from last year — for the UN World Food Programme.

If you made a donation, you're maybe one of the winners, so check the raffle results. And Rebecca, please contact me (purpleliquid at manageyourcellar.com) so I can ship your prize to you.

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Friday, January 11, 2008

Hillary, Obama, and a 1972 Zinfandel

I am with Hillary, Obama, and a co-worker of mine in the countryside somewhere in the Bay Area. Everybody is smiling and in a good mood: my co-worker had brought a 1972 Zinfandel from a local winery that she wants us to taste. In the glass, the wine has a beautiful light red color and a mild perfume of violets and raspberry. On the palate, it has a soft, velvety texture —almost like an old Burgundy — but with a distinctive Zinfandel character. We are all blown away by how good the wine is and decide to pay a visit to the winery, which happens to be close by.

I wake up. I guess I'd been browsing the web too much the night before!


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Saturday, December 29, 2007

Celebrate the New Year with a Pauillac

The other day, we invited our good friends over for a holiday dinner that started with Champagne, oysters, and foie gras. For the occasion, our friend Rick had brought a bottle from his magnificent wine collection, a 1996 Château Pontet Canet that we opened with the main dish, a chicken roasted with chestnuts.

Château Pontet Canet is a Fifth Growth estate located in the northern end of the Pauillac commune, across the road from Château Mouton Rothschild. It has 80 hectares of vineyards, planted with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The average age of the vines is 35 years.

The wine was simply outstanding. It was medium red in color with a multi-layered nose of blackberry aromas and gamey notes. On the palate, it was intense and luscious with a long finish dominated by licorice. Purely enchanting.

I am afraid the magnum of 1998 Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District that I opened later didn't stand comparison with the Pauillac. But the company was merry and nobody cared.

Happy new year!

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Thursday, December 20, 2007

Forget the Winter Reds, try this delicious California White

The wine departments of our local grocery stores are getting more and more interesting. You can now find wines from many regions around the world and at the same time, there is often a shelf dedicated to wines made by local wineries. So the other day, I found a 2005 Cinnabar Mercury Rising Blanc at my local Mollie Stone's Market. I already had the Mercury Rising Red — a Bordeaux-style wine — several times, and I was curious to try the white version.

Located high on a ridge in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Cinnabar Vineyards & Winery was founded by Tom Mudd, a Stanford grad and research engineer at SRI International (Stanford Research Institute). But after planting a one-acre mountain vineyard in 1974, he decided to change careers, took viticulture and enology courses at the University of California Davis, and finally founded his own winery in 1983.

He chose the name Cinnabar, a brick-red mineral (mercury sulfide) that fascinated the alchemists of the Middle Ages. They would crush and heat up a piece of cinnabar and observe the mercury separate from sulfur and evaporate. Using a similar process, they were hoping to find a way to extract gold and silver from any ordinary metal.

Mercury Rising Blanc is Cinnabar's proprietary white. It is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Sémillon, sourced in 2005 in Monterey County, Sonoma County and Clarksburg. We opened the wine at a recent holiday potluck lunch where people had brought different ethnic dishes. The wine ended up being very popular. In the glass, it displayed a pale yellow color and a fresh nose of citrus. There was some tangy acidity on the palate followed by lime flavors and minerality on the finish. The wine worked beautifully with the ethnic food, especially the Sashimi salad made with raw flounder and brought by our Japanese friend Misako.


Misako's sashimi salad


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Wednesday, December 12, 2007

4th Annual Menu for Hope: donate and win food and wine prizes

Each year, food and wine bloggers from all over the world join forces to promote the Menu for Hope initiative and donate a wide selection of wonderful food and wine related prizes.

Menu for Hope is essentially an online raffle with prizes donated by bloggers. For every US$10 they donate, participants receive a virtual raffle ticket toward a prize of their choice. In 2006, Menu for Hope successfully raised US$60,925.12 to help the UN World Food Programme feed the hungry.

This year, Menu for Hope is again supporting the UN World Food Programme and more specifically, the school lunch program in Lesotho, Africa. This program not only keep these children alive but also help them stay in school so that they can learn the necessary skills to feed themselves in the future. This is also a model program in local procurement - buying food locally to support local farmers and the local economy.

Now, how can you help? it is very easy: go to the donation site at Firstgiving and make a donation. Make sure you read the instructions regarding your choice of prize(s). This year, Purple Liquid will donate a Santa Cruz Mountains Wine Sampler, 6 wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains, a world-class wine producing region and home to some of the oldest wineries in California. Use code WB25 for this prize but before that, make sure I can ship the wine to you: the wine can only be shipped to the following states: Alaska, Arizona, California, Colorado, District of Columbia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Iowa, Louisiana, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, New Mexico, New York, North Dakota, Oregon, Texas, Washington, West Virginia, and Wisconsin.

I hope you will be the lucky person I will ship my prize to.

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Friday, December 07, 2007

Tasting the wines of South America

The wines from South America was the theme of our last wine club tasting event. The selection included three wines from Argentina and four from Chile. The overall impression of the tasting was that many of the wines were big and some rather high in alcohol. These wines were also highly rated by wine critics —six out of seven were rated 90 points and above — showing that these South American wineries had been successfully positioning themselves for the American/European market.

Argentina
Although Argentina is one of the world's top five largest wine producing countries, quality-focused winemaking in Argentina has a young history. Not so long ago, most of Argentina's production was aimed at the local market. However, economic stability over the past decade has encouraged substantial investment — especially from foreign countries — and quality has drastically improved.

In Argentina, the winemaking region spreads along over 2,400 km at the foothills of the Andes. The region is dry and arid, a semi-desert with a wide thermal amplitude between day and night. Irrigation is essential and comes from the melting snow of the Andes. Here, altitude is one of the key factors to growing quality wine grapes. Vineyards are planted at between 2,500 and 5,000 feet to exploit cooler temperatures.

Chile
According to Chilean winemakers, “Chile is a paradise to grow grapes”. Wine has been made in Chile for centuries thanks to a unique combination of climatic and geographical conditions. Chile's wine regions are located in the broad valleys that lie against the Andes Mountains. In these valleys, the climate is generally hot and dry, although always balanced by cooling influences from the cold Pacific Ocean that is rarely more than 80km away.

Thanks to the Andes Mountains, a natural barrier against the invasion of diseases, Chile has never been attacked by the root louse Phylloxera. Therefore, vines can safely grow on their own roots. They can be planted by simply sticking cuttings into the ground without the burden and expense of grafting them on to resistant rootstock.




The wines we tasted:

• 2006 Colomé Torrontés Salsa. Torrontés is Argentina's number one white variety although it is practically unknown in other parts of the world. It produces fragrant and fruity wines with crisp acidity and plenty of body. Bodega Colomé is situated at 7500 feet elevation in the Salta wine region near the base of the Andes and is actually the highest altitude winery in the world. Their Torrontès comes from 80-year-old vines farmed using biodynamic principles. My notes: extremely aromatic, a hint of sweetness, medium-bodied, reminded us of a Viognier.

• 2006 Montes Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Vineyard: Viña Montes is a state-of-the-art winery from Chile that was founded in the late 1980s with the mission “to produce the best wines and continue opening markets and bringing the Chilean flag to all the world.”. Every bottle of wine is embossed with a seal that reads “From Chile with pride.” Today, over 90% of the wines from Montes are exported to over 70 different countries throughout the world. This Sauvignon Blanc comes from Leyda Vineyard located north of the Colchagua Valley and slightly cooler thanks due to its proximity to the Pacific Ocean. My notes: very fruity nose, aromas of citrus, crisp, pleasant.

• 2004 Montes Alpha Syrah Apalta Vineyard: The Apalta Vineyard is located in Chile's Colchagua Valley at fairly high elevation, some 40 miles from the coast. The weather is characterized by warm and sunny days and very cool evenings. My notes: purple black color, ripe fruit aromas on the nose, thick, woody, and alcoholic on the palate. Overall, was found bold and for some, unbalanced.

• 2006 Achaval Ferrer Malbec Mendoza: Achaval Ferrer is an Argentinean winery located in the Province of Mendoza, the country's largest wine region. The wine is 100% Malbec, Argentina's great red grape. Malbec is also one of the traditional Bordeaux varietals and the dominant red varietal in the Cahors appellation. Argentinian Malbecs are sometimes considered the best in the world. My notes: dark purple color, black fruit and pepper on the nose, some tannins and acidity on the palate. Nice yet not overly complex.

• 2003 Tikal Patriota: from the Mendoza wine region in Argentina, this is a blend of Bonarda and Malbec. Unrelated to the Piedmont grape Bonarda Piemontese, Argentina's Bonarda may be the same grape as Charbono a variety of French origin and imported from California. Bonarda is today the second most widely planted grape variety in Argentina after Malbec. My notes: dark color, rich fruity flavors, well-balanced with some complexity. One of my favorite wines of the evening.

• 2005 Arboleda Carmenère: Also a traditional Bordeaux varietal, Carmenère is currently the rising star of the Chilean wine industry. Because of its susceptibility to mildew and pests, it is rarely used in Bordeaux anymore and as of today, Chile produces the vast majority of Carmenère wines with more than 4,000 hectares cultivated. Arboleda, which in Spanish means grove of trees, is a company founded in 1999 by Robert Mondavi and Eduardo Chadwick of Viña Errázuriz. My notes: deep color, aromas of black fruit and bittersweet dark cocoa, smoky, round mouthfeel, dusty finish. Another favorite of mine.

• 2005 Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée Alexandre: The Marnier-Lapostolle family, creator of the Grand Marnier liqueur, founded Casa Lapostolle in 1994, purchasing an old wine estate in Chile's Colchagua Valley. The cuvée Alexandre is named after the owner's great-grandfather, Alexandre Marnier, who created Grand Marnier in 1880. It is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot coming from non irrigated 60 year old vines. My notes: deep red color, black berries on the nose, firm on the palate with tannins. Seems too young to be drunk now for my taste, should age a little bit longer.

Our next tasting event is our traditional end of the year Champagne tasting. We'll have a great selection of wines, mostly from small Champagne growers so don't miss it!

Previous wine club tastings:
•  Tasting Summer Wines from around the Mediterranean Sea
•  Guess the wine tasting
•  Tasting the wines of Australia and New Zealand

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Wednesday, December 05, 2007

With the turkey leftovers, a magnum of 2003 Ridge Lytton Springs

My friend Catherine has delicious ways to accomodate turkey leftovers. So the day after Thanksgiving, she made a soup with what was left of the turkey carcass. She had to cook the carcass for at least four hours to produce the broth, and then she made the soup with the broth, chopped vegetables, and diced turkey.

She also showed us how to make turkey croquettes with leftover mashed potatoes. Simply served with a green salad, they were the ultimate comfort dish: crispy on the outside, moist and tasty on the inside.

And we were far from running out of wine as it was time to open the magnum of 2003 Ridge Lytton Springs that our friend Pierre had brought.

It's in 1972 that Ridge Vineyards started making its first Lytton Springs Zinfandel from 80 year old vines, and in the early 1990s, the winery was able to purchase the land. The place is named after "Captain" William Litton, the actual owner in the 1870s. It was later in the early 1900s that the spelling changed to Lytton.

The vineyard is located north of Sonoma County, in the hills that separate the Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. It is mostly planted to Zinfandel — including some 111-year-old vines — as well as Petite Sirah, Carignane, a small amount of Mataro (Mourvèdre), and Grenache.

The wine had deep red color and a rich combination of red and black fruits on the nose. The palate had some good acidity and sweet berry aromas without being jammy at all. Overall, the wine was very well balanced, offering much more finesse than most. I was happy: I too rarely find a Zinfandel that I like.

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Thursday, November 29, 2007

A memorable Thanksgiving dinner

We spent Thanksgiving in Tahoe with our dear friends Catherine and Pierre and their children. The weather was sunny and cold — no snow — which was perfect for early afternoon hikes and the rest of the day dedicated to various activities including cooking, knitting, reading, playing games, and eating of course. Actually, cooking was the main activity of this extended weekend and our friend Catherine being an awesome cook, I can tell you that everything that came out of the kitchen was incredibly delicious. She was the one in charge of course, the rest of us helping with basic tasks such as slicing, dicing, and mincing.


The turkey in its citrus flavored brine


>
The roasted turkey



A sampling of turkey, cornbread stuffing, and side dishes


Our friend Pierre had brought the wine: a 1997 Beaune Premier Cru Les Teurons Domaine Germain that they had bought at the Château de Chorey while vacationing in Burgundy. The domaine includes a renovated castle with five chambres d'hôtes and one suite, as well as several Beaune Premier Cru vineyards mostly planted with old vines. Les Teurons is a 21.04 ha premier cru vineyard known to produce elegant wines which are round, rich and balanced. The wine had a clear light red color with a fragrant nose of floral and fruity aromas. On the palate, it was well-aged, balanced and harmonious, leaving a light smoky note on the finish.

After the turkey feast, we went for a walk, in order to make room for the dessert: a very yummy pear tart tatin that my daughter had made.


The pear tart tatin: seems crumbly but was actually very yummy


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Wednesday, November 14, 2007

WBW #39: a wine from Silver Burgundy, the 2005 Viré-Clessé Maison Chanson

Can you find a good Burgundy at a reasonable price? Yes, says the Brooklynguy, who is hosting this month's 39th edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday. Just consider the wines from Silver Burgundy, the southern part of Burgundy that includes the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais.

If you're a Burgundy lover, you may know that the Mâconnais is one of the best sources of good value Chardonnays. The 2005 Viré-Clessé Maison Chanson comes from that region. Created in 1999, Viré-Clessé is one of France's newest appellations. It is made of two villages, Viré and Clessé, located about 15 kilometers north of Mâcon, and previously part of the Mâcon-Villages appellation. The terroir is good with south-east facing slopes and soils of clay and limestone. Only white wines are produced in the area as Chardonnay is the only varietal allowed in the appellation.

The producer is the Beaune based Maison Chanson, a négociant house founded in 1750 and now part of the Champagne Bollinger group. The domaine owns premium vineyards around Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, and Pernand-Vergelesses. While a quarter of the production comes from estate fruits, the rest is being sourced from selected growers.

The wine is from the 2005 vintage, which was exceptional in Burgundy. The growing season was characterized by a cold winter, a rainy spring followed by a hot and dry summer. During harvest, the grapes were picked at optimum ripeness and in perfect health. The wine shows a light golden color and toasted nuts and pears on the nose. On the palate, it is fresh and creamy with a mineral finish.

Overall, it is a very nice wine and a good accompaniment to fish. Try it with Poached Fish with Lemon and Capers.

And thanks for hosting Brooklynguy!

Previous WBW posts:
•  WBW #38: 2001 Periquita Classico
•  WBW #37: Hello Teroldego!
•  WBW #34: 2002 Stella Maris Red Columbia Valley

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Thursday, November 08, 2007

2005 La Dame Blanche du Château Kefraya

This wine was a silent auction item that I bought at my children's school, graciously donated by the Lebanese restaurant Illusions Fayrouz in Palo Alto. I had been curious to taste it since the day I won it at the auction, so the other night, I felt that it was time to give it a try.

Lebanon is one of the oldest wine regions in the world. Viticulture was established in the Bekaa Valley — the country's main wine producing area — about 6000 years ago. Located 30 kilometers east of Beirut, the Bekaa valley is has a Mediterranean climate with wet winters and dry, warm summers, and an average altitude of 1000 meters above sea level. The Château Kefraya is the second biggest winery in the Bekaa valley. It is a 300 hectares estate with terraced vineyards planted at an altitude of 950 to 1100 meters on clayey, limy and stony soils. The wine production is mostly red but includes two whites: Casta Diva and La Dame Blanche

The 2005 La Dame Blanche du Château Kefraya is a blend of Mediterranean varieties including Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc, and Clairette. It has a straw-yellow color and a nose of floral and honey aromas. The palate is round and full with some good acidity and a nice finish of garrigue herbs. The wine strongly reminds me of a Coteaux du Languedoc and will work well with many Mediterranean dishes. I recommend it with a Provencal style Baked Fish.

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