I just came into a fun website called the Silly Tasting Notes Generator, and for a while, could not stop myself from playing with it. I was amazed at how close these notes were to reality.
Let's guess: which one is from the Wine Spectator, and which one isn't:
A plump, rich and creamy style, with ripe fig, hazelnut and buttery flavors, and pretty glimpses of anise, pear and tangerine. Drink now through 2005.
Wholly obtuse but equally big and plump Port. Attacks with fig, complex and stunning cocoa and weak orange peel. Drink now through 2009.
Actually, this stunning similarity is not a surprise considering the way the generator works. The notes are generated by a script, which randomly picks wine aroma and flavor terms selected from real Wine Spectator tasting notes.
Of course, when you turn on the Extra-Silly mode, it gets totally wacky:
Premature but equally putrid Chenin Blanc. Whispers of cheetos, ripe coconut suntan oil and hopeful orange jello. Drink now through 2004.
Who said that wine was a serious matter?
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Friday, October 28, 2005
Thursday, October 27, 2005
Purple Liquid in the Top 10 Sources for Wine Reviews!
TopTenSources publishes a daily "Top 10" site of the best newsfeeds on the Internet. And today, big surprise, I just learned that I was part of their 10 top sources for wine reviews! They also announced two other wine-related winning lists: wine news and commentary and regional wine, which means that a total of 30 wine blogs have been recognized as great source of information on wine. Congratulations everybody!Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Wednesday, October 26, 2005
Course on Italian wines at Incanto: a sweet ending
Our last wine class at Incanto was about Dessert Wines. It seems to me that every Italian wine region is making its own dessert wines, from the very far north all the way to Pantelleria Island, which is at the latitude of the north coast of Africa. Some are fresh, light and gently fizzy and others are opulent and luscious, but one thing is sure: there is no better way to end a fine Italian dinner!
Vineyard on Pantelleria Island
We started our tasting with a Moscato d'Asti. This low alcohol, semi-sparkling wine is made from the Moscato grape that grows on cool, steep hillsides between the Piemontese towns of Asti and Cuneo. Fermentation occurs until an alcohol level of 5.5 percent is reached, and then stopped by a filtration that removes any remaining live yeasts. The level of sweetness can be adjusted by the addition of unfermented must. The 2004 Moscato di Asti Sori del Re De Giorgis had a light straw color and an aromatic flowery nose with notes of pears and white peaches. On the palate, it was refreshing and lightly sparkling with a good acid/sweetness balance. The finish was clean and crisp. This is a good easy-going aperitif wine to drink well chilled.
Our second wine was a Lambrusco Reggiano. This is a locally popular wine from Emilia-Romagna. Thanks to its fizziness, this lively red wine is good at cleaning the mouth during a meal consisting of the region's rich food, pork-based dishes and meat ragout. At first, I did not like the Lambrusco Reggiano Rosso Dolce Lo Duca. It had a pruny and earthy nose that was hard for me to describe. On the palate, it started sweet, and finished dry, with more earthy and herby tones. After a couple of sips, though, I kind of got used to the wine, and could well imagine eating some mortadella, panchetta, and prosciutto with it.
Our next wine was the 2002 I Capitelli Anselmi from the Veneto's Suave region. Roberto Anselmi is a passionate winemaker that believes that Soave's DOC laws promote over-production and mediocre quality. In 2000, he made the bold decision to produce his wines outside the Soave Appellation. I Capitelli is made from 100% Garganega grapes grown in the low-yielding I Capitelli vineyard. After a rigorous selection during harvest and again at the winery, the grapes are dried in a well-ventilated room. By December, the grapes are affected by botrytis (or noble rot), and in February, they are pressed and barrel fermented in French oak barriques for 16 months followed by a year in bottle. The wine had a deep golden color with an intense nose of pineapple and mango. On the palate, it was amazingly fresh and lively, yet opulent, with caramel and pineapple jam flavors, followed by a long, lingering finish. We thought about having an upside down pineapple cake with it.
The next wine was a Vin Santo del Chianti Classico. Symbol of Tuscan joviality and hospitality, Vin Santo has been produced in Tuscany since the 14th century. The wine is made from dried Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes. After a selection of the best bunches, the grapes are dried for about four months on mats and racks. Then, vinification and aging is carried out in small barrels called caratelli during 3 to 4 years. The barrels, which are not completely full, are exposed to varying temperatures, hot in the summer, cool in the winter, which produces wines with distinct oxidized and nutty aromas. The 1995 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Fattoria di Felsina had an attractive dark golden color, cherry liqueur aromas with toasty wood, cherry pit, and almond notes, and some burnt sugar flavors on the finish. This wine should go very well with an almond cake or the traditional almond biscotti.
With our last wine, we moved to the Pantelleria island, the southernmost territory of Italy, closer to the Tunisian coast than to Italy. The island produces a sweet wine called Passito di Pantelleria made from dried Zibibbo (Muscat) grapes. It is believed that Passito di Pantelleria was invented by the Punicians who also founded Carthage. Zibibbo is the principal grape that grows in the island. Its name comes from the Arab word zibib, which means grape. To dry the grapes and increase sugar concentration, clusters are arranged on a bed of stones and wood, a cannizza, where they are exposed to the sun during the day, and protected from the dew with a cover during the night. This way, the grapes are dried in just a few days. The 2001 Passito di Pantelleria Fernandes had a deep amber color and a rich nose with citrus notes. On the palate, it showed intense dried apricot flavors and a bittersweet finish of candied kumquat. This wine is truly delicious with the brown sugar date torta with orange crème fraîche and maple syrup that is offered in the restaurant's dessert menu.
More on Italian wines:
• Sparkling Wines
• The North
• Tuscany
• Piedmont
• South and Islands
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Vineyard on Pantelleria Island
We started our tasting with a Moscato d'Asti. This low alcohol, semi-sparkling wine is made from the Moscato grape that grows on cool, steep hillsides between the Piemontese towns of Asti and Cuneo. Fermentation occurs until an alcohol level of 5.5 percent is reached, and then stopped by a filtration that removes any remaining live yeasts. The level of sweetness can be adjusted by the addition of unfermented must. The 2004 Moscato di Asti Sori del Re De Giorgis had a light straw color and an aromatic flowery nose with notes of pears and white peaches. On the palate, it was refreshing and lightly sparkling with a good acid/sweetness balance. The finish was clean and crisp. This is a good easy-going aperitif wine to drink well chilled.Our second wine was a Lambrusco Reggiano. This is a locally popular wine from Emilia-Romagna. Thanks to its fizziness, this lively red wine is good at cleaning the mouth during a meal consisting of the region's rich food, pork-based dishes and meat ragout. At first, I did not like the Lambrusco Reggiano Rosso Dolce Lo Duca. It had a pruny and earthy nose that was hard for me to describe. On the palate, it started sweet, and finished dry, with more earthy and herby tones. After a couple of sips, though, I kind of got used to the wine, and could well imagine eating some mortadella, panchetta, and prosciutto with it.Our next wine was the 2002 I Capitelli Anselmi from the Veneto's Suave region. Roberto Anselmi is a passionate winemaker that believes that Soave's DOC laws promote over-production and mediocre quality. In 2000, he made the bold decision to produce his wines outside the Soave Appellation. I Capitelli is made from 100% Garganega grapes grown in the low-yielding I Capitelli vineyard. After a rigorous selection during harvest and again at the winery, the grapes are dried in a well-ventilated room. By December, the grapes are affected by botrytis (or noble rot), and in February, they are pressed and barrel fermented in French oak barriques for 16 months followed by a year in bottle. The wine had a deep golden color with an intense nose of pineapple and mango. On the palate, it was amazingly fresh and lively, yet opulent, with caramel and pineapple jam flavors, followed by a long, lingering finish. We thought about having an upside down pineapple cake with it.The next wine was a Vin Santo del Chianti Classico. Symbol of Tuscan joviality and hospitality, Vin Santo has been produced in Tuscany since the 14th century. The wine is made from dried Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes. After a selection of the best bunches, the grapes are dried for about four months on mats and racks. Then, vinification and aging is carried out in small barrels called caratelli during 3 to 4 years. The barrels, which are not completely full, are exposed to varying temperatures, hot in the summer, cool in the winter, which produces wines with distinct oxidized and nutty aromas. The 1995 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Fattoria di Felsina had an attractive dark golden color, cherry liqueur aromas with toasty wood, cherry pit, and almond notes, and some burnt sugar flavors on the finish. This wine should go very well with an almond cake or the traditional almond biscotti.With our last wine, we moved to the Pantelleria island, the southernmost territory of Italy, closer to the Tunisian coast than to Italy. The island produces a sweet wine called Passito di Pantelleria made from dried Zibibbo (Muscat) grapes. It is believed that Passito di Pantelleria was invented by the Punicians who also founded Carthage. Zibibbo is the principal grape that grows in the island. Its name comes from the Arab word zibib, which means grape. To dry the grapes and increase sugar concentration, clusters are arranged on a bed of stones and wood, a cannizza, where they are exposed to the sun during the day, and protected from the dew with a cover during the night. This way, the grapes are dried in just a few days. The 2001 Passito di Pantelleria Fernandes had a deep amber color and a rich nose with citrus notes. On the palate, it showed intense dried apricot flavors and a bittersweet finish of candied kumquat. This wine is truly delicious with the brown sugar date torta with orange crème fraîche and maple syrup that is offered in the restaurant's dessert menu.More on Italian wines:
• Sparkling Wines
• The North
• Tuscany
• Piedmont
• South and Islands
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Monday, October 24, 2005
The Vineyard by Louisa Thomas Hargrave
I have been captivated by Louisa Thomas Hargrave's memoir, The Vineyard. This is a heartwarming tale about two young dreamers who wanted to grow grapes and make wine on an old Long Island potato farm. They were also pioneers, defying the widely accepted thought that Vitis Vinifera could not grow in that region.With Louisa, we learn the hardships and joys of frontier life, exactly like young Louisa, avidly following the trail of Laura Ingalls Wilder: constant challenges like drought, storms, weeds, certified pants riddled with virus, accidents, bureaucratic nightmares, but also joyful events like giving birth, sharing food with neighbors, dancing in the fermenting wine must. And sometimes the wildest dream comes true:
“I put my nose over the wine and inhaled deeply. The tears started coursing down my face. I could not speak. This time, I was crying for joy. We had made the wine I had imagined us making. The wine of my dreams was in our barrel, in our winery.&rdquo
I wish I could have tasted Louisa and Alex Hargrave's wine at the time. It looked so special. But I am glad that Louisa shared her memories with us in this precious book.
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Wednesday, October 19, 2005
Course on Italian wines at Incanto: The South and Islands
The Italian South and Islands was the theme of our fifth wine class at Incanto.
Vineyard in Sicily
We started our tasting with Sardinia, the second largest Mediterranean island after Sicily. It is located off the west coast of Italy, just south of the French island of Corsica. Vines have been growing on the island since pre-Roman times. Over the centuries, viticulture and winemaking have been influenced by many foreign cultures, Spain being the most influential country. Sardinia's most important varietals, such as Cannonau ( Grenache), Monica and Vermentino, have all been imported from Spain during the Spanish domination of the island. Geographically, Sardinia consists mostly of mountainous plateaus made of granite and volcanic rocks with most vineyards being planted in the hills and flatlands.
We tasted two wines from Sardinia. The white wine was a Vermentino di Gallura, an appellation located on the northern side of the island. This is one of the only four Italian DOCG. The finesse of the grape is said to come from the combination of heat and marine winds, and from the richness of the soil made of decomposed granite. The 2003 Cantina Gallura Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Canayli had a golden color, an aromatic nose of dried herbs, a fat, nutty mouthfeel and a mineral, almost salty finish. The perfect wine to accompany grilled sardines.
The second Sardinian wine was a red wine from the Cannonau di Sardegna appellation. Cannonau thrives in Sardinia's Mediterranean climate and accounts for 20% of the island wine production. The 2001 Contini Cannonau di Sardegna 'Inu had a forward nose of sweet berries. It was medium-bodied and supple on the palate with fruity aromas, and a smooth and well-balanced aftertaste.
We moved to Campania for the other white wine of the tasting. The region, home to the world-renowned Bay of Naples and the threatening Mount Vesuvius, is bordered on the north by Latium and Molise, to the east by Apulia, to the south by Basilicata, and to the west by the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is also the gateway to Southern Italy. It is said that if the south of Italy has become one of the most exciting wine areas of the world, then Campania is the most exciting part of it.
Campania has a long history of viticulture. When the Greek discovered the region in the 8th Century BC, they called it Enotria or Wineland. Local grapes such as Greco, Grecanico, Grechetto and Aglianico, may have a Greek origin (in fact, maybe not).
The best vineyards are found around the town of Avellino, on the slopes of the Apennine chain where the volcanic soil is rich with minerals and the Mediterranean sun is cooled down by winds coming from the mountains. This region is at the heart of the Campania Apennines and is sometimes called the Switzerland of the South. It is home to Campania's best wines including the red Taurasi, often called the Barolo of the south, and the white Greco di Tufo.
The wine we tasted was a Fiano di Avellino, the third DOCG of the region. The 2003 Feudi Di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino is made from Fiano, a varietal that the Romains called Apiano because bees (apis in Latin) are attracted by the sweet aromas of the grape. The wine had a bright golden color and an attractive floral nose with fresh pear and apple aromas. It was medium-bodied with smoky and spicy flavors on the palate and quite complex on the finish. It should go well with a Mediterranean fish stew.
Our next wine came from Apulia, the region that is at the heel of the Italian boot. Apulia competes with Sicily for first place as grape producer. For a long time, most of its wines were shipped north to Turin to make Vermouth, or to France to add color and weight to lighter French reds. However, in recent years, production has scaled back and many vintners are now focusing on quality.
The traditional wines of this area are the powerful inky reds made from Primitivo, Negroamaro, and Malvasia Nera. We tasted the 2003 La Corte Solyss Negroamaro made from the Negroamaro grape. In Italian, Negroamaro means black bitter and in fact, I found some bitter cocoa flavors on the finish. The wine had a fresh and fruity nose and tasted peppery on the palate.
Our tasting of the South ended with Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean sea. Sicily has more vineyards than any other Italian region and a reputation for bulk wine. But recently, like in Apulia, production has been decreasing and a push for quality has developed.
Sicily has a long history of making sweet wines. In the late 18th century, English merchant traders created Marsala and Sicily became a major source of fortified wine. Dessert wines still account for about 90% of the total DOC production but an increasing amount of lighter, fruitier wines is produced by quality-conscious vintners. Although Sicilian producers are expanding their use of international varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, the island is home to distinctive native grapes such as Nero d'Avola, Frappato, and Grecanico. We tasted the 2002 Valle dell'Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria, which is a blend of Frappato and Nero d'Avola. The wine had an ample nose of black berries and prunes, felt warm with flavors of stewed fruits and some acidity on the palate, and had notes of caramel on the finish.
More on Italian wines:
• Sparkling Wines
• The North
• Tuscany
• Piedmont
Coming next week: The dessert wines.
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Vineyard in Sicily
We started our tasting with Sardinia, the second largest Mediterranean island after Sicily. It is located off the west coast of Italy, just south of the French island of Corsica. Vines have been growing on the island since pre-Roman times. Over the centuries, viticulture and winemaking have been influenced by many foreign cultures, Spain being the most influential country. Sardinia's most important varietals, such as Cannonau ( Grenache), Monica and Vermentino, have all been imported from Spain during the Spanish domination of the island. Geographically, Sardinia consists mostly of mountainous plateaus made of granite and volcanic rocks with most vineyards being planted in the hills and flatlands.
We tasted two wines from Sardinia. The white wine was a Vermentino di Gallura, an appellation located on the northern side of the island. This is one of the only four Italian DOCG. The finesse of the grape is said to come from the combination of heat and marine winds, and from the richness of the soil made of decomposed granite. The 2003 Cantina Gallura Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Canayli had a golden color, an aromatic nose of dried herbs, a fat, nutty mouthfeel and a mineral, almost salty finish. The perfect wine to accompany grilled sardines.The second Sardinian wine was a red wine from the Cannonau di Sardegna appellation. Cannonau thrives in Sardinia's Mediterranean climate and accounts for 20% of the island wine production. The 2001 Contini Cannonau di Sardegna 'Inu had a forward nose of sweet berries. It was medium-bodied and supple on the palate with fruity aromas, and a smooth and well-balanced aftertaste.We moved to Campania for the other white wine of the tasting. The region, home to the world-renowned Bay of Naples and the threatening Mount Vesuvius, is bordered on the north by Latium and Molise, to the east by Apulia, to the south by Basilicata, and to the west by the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is also the gateway to Southern Italy. It is said that if the south of Italy has become one of the most exciting wine areas of the world, then Campania is the most exciting part of it.
Campania has a long history of viticulture. When the Greek discovered the region in the 8th Century BC, they called it Enotria or Wineland. Local grapes such as Greco, Grecanico, Grechetto and Aglianico, may have a Greek origin (in fact, maybe not).
The best vineyards are found around the town of Avellino, on the slopes of the Apennine chain where the volcanic soil is rich with minerals and the Mediterranean sun is cooled down by winds coming from the mountains. This region is at the heart of the Campania Apennines and is sometimes called the Switzerland of the South. It is home to Campania's best wines including the red Taurasi, often called the Barolo of the south, and the white Greco di Tufo.
The wine we tasted was a Fiano di Avellino, the third DOCG of the region. The 2003 Feudi Di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino is made from Fiano, a varietal that the Romains called Apiano because bees (apis in Latin) are attracted by the sweet aromas of the grape. The wine had a bright golden color and an attractive floral nose with fresh pear and apple aromas. It was medium-bodied with smoky and spicy flavors on the palate and quite complex on the finish. It should go well with a Mediterranean fish stew.Our next wine came from Apulia, the region that is at the heel of the Italian boot. Apulia competes with Sicily for first place as grape producer. For a long time, most of its wines were shipped north to Turin to make Vermouth, or to France to add color and weight to lighter French reds. However, in recent years, production has scaled back and many vintners are now focusing on quality.
The traditional wines of this area are the powerful inky reds made from Primitivo, Negroamaro, and Malvasia Nera. We tasted the 2003 La Corte Solyss Negroamaro made from the Negroamaro grape. In Italian, Negroamaro means black bitter and in fact, I found some bitter cocoa flavors on the finish. The wine had a fresh and fruity nose and tasted peppery on the palate.Our tasting of the South ended with Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean sea. Sicily has more vineyards than any other Italian region and a reputation for bulk wine. But recently, like in Apulia, production has been decreasing and a push for quality has developed.
Sicily has a long history of making sweet wines. In the late 18th century, English merchant traders created Marsala and Sicily became a major source of fortified wine. Dessert wines still account for about 90% of the total DOC production but an increasing amount of lighter, fruitier wines is produced by quality-conscious vintners. Although Sicilian producers are expanding their use of international varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, the island is home to distinctive native grapes such as Nero d'Avola, Frappato, and Grecanico. We tasted the 2002 Valle dell'Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria, which is a blend of Frappato and Nero d'Avola. The wine had an ample nose of black berries and prunes, felt warm with flavors of stewed fruits and some acidity on the palate, and had notes of caramel on the finish. More on Italian wines:
• Sparkling Wines
• The North
• Tuscany
• Piedmont
Coming next week: The dessert wines.
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Tuesday, October 18, 2005
1-2-3-4 White Wine Cake and Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco
Recently, a good friend of mine gave me a recipe for a white wine cake. The presence of white wine in a cake was intriguing and since I had some eggs in the refrigerator that were close to their expiration date, I decided to try the recipe right away.
Making the cake was as easy as counting 1-2-3-4. Mix 1 cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 3 cups of flour, and 4 eggs. Then add 1 cup of white wine, 1 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract, and 4 teaspoons of baking powder. Bake for 1 hour at 350°F et voilà!
Wondering which white wine I should use, I searched the web and found a recipe that seemed to indicate that this kind of cake originated in Alsace. The recipe recommended to use a Edelzwicker wine. Edel means noble and zwicker means blend so Edelzwicker is usually a blend of two to three noble Alsatian varietals such as Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, and Sylvaner. It is actually a rarity in Alsace where almost all the wines are varietal wines. The wine is usually used for cooking or mixed with cassis liqueur and drank as an aperitif.
I did not have any Edelzwicker wine so I used a Alto Adige Pinot Bianco from Alois Lageder, which, I think, was close enough. We drank the remaining of the wine with the cake that I served with a red berry sauce made of strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. The cake was light and fluffy and the wine was rather pleasant and a good match for the cake and the slightly acidic sauce. The nose was mild, mineral, with notes of apple, and the palate was light- to medium-bodied with a crisp and fresh aftertaste.
Technorati tags:: wine food food & drink
Making the cake was as easy as counting 1-2-3-4. Mix 1 cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 3 cups of flour, and 4 eggs. Then add 1 cup of white wine, 1 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract, and 4 teaspoons of baking powder. Bake for 1 hour at 350°F et voilà!
Wondering which white wine I should use, I searched the web and found a recipe that seemed to indicate that this kind of cake originated in Alsace. The recipe recommended to use a Edelzwicker wine. Edel means noble and zwicker means blend so Edelzwicker is usually a blend of two to three noble Alsatian varietals such as Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, and Sylvaner. It is actually a rarity in Alsace where almost all the wines are varietal wines. The wine is usually used for cooking or mixed with cassis liqueur and drank as an aperitif.
I did not have any Edelzwicker wine so I used a Alto Adige Pinot Bianco from Alois Lageder, which, I think, was close enough. We drank the remaining of the wine with the cake that I served with a red berry sauce made of strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. The cake was light and fluffy and the wine was rather pleasant and a good match for the cake and the slightly acidic sauce. The nose was mild, mineral, with notes of apple, and the palate was light- to medium-bodied with a crisp and fresh aftertaste. Technorati tags:: wine food food & drink
Friday, October 14, 2005
Course on Italian wines at Incanto: Piedmont
The third session of the Italian wines course, organized by Incanto, was about Piedmont. This westernmost region of Italy borders France and Switzerland on the other side of the Alps. In fact, Piemonte means foot of the mountain because the region is almost encircled by the Alps. Winters are cold and snowy, summers are warm and dry, and during the harvest season, the weather is often cool and foggy. However, the region produces a high percentage of very distinctive wines, mostly red.
piedmont-wine.co.uk
Piedmont is often called the Burgundy of Italy. It is famous for its family-owned, artisanal winemaking, as well as its great cuisine, featuring game, porcini and white truffles. The Piedmontese are people who strongly respect tradition, good craftsmanship, and are completely devoted to native varietals.
The morning of the class, I unfortunately woke up with a cold. My nose was congested during the class and I sadly sensed that I was missing a lot of the flavors of the wines we tasted.
Our first wine was a white wine from the Roero appellation, which is located in southeastern Piedmont, between the town of Alba and Asti. Roero makes a certain amount of aromatic white wines from the native Arneis grape. Aged in stainless steel, the 2003 Roero Arneis Recit Monchiero Carbone showed a golden color and a lively citrus nose. On the palate, it was medium-bodied, dry and nutty. A very pleasant wine.
Our second wine was a red wine from the native Barbera grape. Barbera is vigorous and productive, and thus, Piedmont's most widely planted grape. Barbera d'Alba, around the town of Alba, and Barbera d'Asti, around Asti, are the two major appellations making 100% Barbera wines. Barbera is sometimes compared to Sangiovese. It is a high-acidity, low-tannin grape that is very food-friendly. The 2002 Barbera d'Asti Camp du Rouss Luigi Coppo was deep garnet red in color. I found it medium-bodied, peppery and spicy with some vanilla notes, but not very fruity, and with a lively acidity on the finish.
The following wine showcased Dolcetto, another popular Piedmontese grape. Dolcetto produces fruity wines, low in tannin, high in acidity, which should be drank young. It means little sweet one because of the sweetness of the grape juice. The 2003 Dolcetto d'Alba Rousori Icardi had a dark-pink/purple color with a mild nose. On the palate, it was round and milky, with a rather short finish. But I found the wine very enjoyable and I liked the soft texture it left in the mouth.
The two remaining red wines were from the Nebbiolo grape. Nebbiolo is one of the world's noblest red varietal, and it can produce rich and long-lived wines, with substantial tannins. The origin of the name is uncertain but some suggests that it comes from nebbia which means fog in Italian, while others think that it comes from nobile, meaning noble. Nebbiolo accounts for only 3% of Piedmont's wine production: the late-ripening grape is difficult to grow, some say harder than Pinot Noir, and it requires the best soils and best exposures, which means hilltops and south-facing slopes.
The most prestigious areas producing Nebbiolo wines are Barolo, southwest of Alba, and Barbaresco, east of Alba. Barbaresco wines are usually regarded as more elegant and refined while Barolos are thought to be more robust and longer-lived.
We first tasted the 2000 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco. The wine had a brick red color and an attractive forward nose. The palate was concentrated with some earthy and sweet fruit flavors. The finish was well balanced with some lively acidity. A very fine wine.
In comparison, the 2001 Barolo Mauro Molino had a powerful nose and a lot of concentration and richness on the palate. The wine was still tannic with some vanilla notes and a long lingering aftertaste. This was, without any doubt, the best wine of the tasting.
We ended the class on a light sparkling note. The 2004 Birbèt Cascina Ca'Rossa is an amazing low-alcohol (5%), sweet red sparkling wine made from Brachetto, another Piedmontese grape. The wine had a bright ruby-pink color and was full of berry aromas. On the palate, the bubbles were light and fresh. It reminded me of a Kir royal, a cocktail made with sparkling wine and crème de cassis. Everybody loved the wine... and the class!
More on Italian wines:
• Sparkling Wines
• The North
• Tuscany
Coming next week: The south and islands
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
piedmont-wine.co.uk
Piedmont is often called the Burgundy of Italy. It is famous for its family-owned, artisanal winemaking, as well as its great cuisine, featuring game, porcini and white truffles. The Piedmontese are people who strongly respect tradition, good craftsmanship, and are completely devoted to native varietals.
The morning of the class, I unfortunately woke up with a cold. My nose was congested during the class and I sadly sensed that I was missing a lot of the flavors of the wines we tasted.
Our first wine was a white wine from the Roero appellation, which is located in southeastern Piedmont, between the town of Alba and Asti. Roero makes a certain amount of aromatic white wines from the native Arneis grape. Aged in stainless steel, the 2003 Roero Arneis Recit Monchiero Carbone showed a golden color and a lively citrus nose. On the palate, it was medium-bodied, dry and nutty. A very pleasant wine.Our second wine was a red wine from the native Barbera grape. Barbera is vigorous and productive, and thus, Piedmont's most widely planted grape. Barbera d'Alba, around the town of Alba, and Barbera d'Asti, around Asti, are the two major appellations making 100% Barbera wines. Barbera is sometimes compared to Sangiovese. It is a high-acidity, low-tannin grape that is very food-friendly. The 2002 Barbera d'Asti Camp du Rouss Luigi Coppo was deep garnet red in color. I found it medium-bodied, peppery and spicy with some vanilla notes, but not very fruity, and with a lively acidity on the finish. The following wine showcased Dolcetto, another popular Piedmontese grape. Dolcetto produces fruity wines, low in tannin, high in acidity, which should be drank young. It means little sweet one because of the sweetness of the grape juice. The 2003 Dolcetto d'Alba Rousori Icardi had a dark-pink/purple color with a mild nose. On the palate, it was round and milky, with a rather short finish. But I found the wine very enjoyable and I liked the soft texture it left in the mouth.The two remaining red wines were from the Nebbiolo grape. Nebbiolo is one of the world's noblest red varietal, and it can produce rich and long-lived wines, with substantial tannins. The origin of the name is uncertain but some suggests that it comes from nebbia which means fog in Italian, while others think that it comes from nobile, meaning noble. Nebbiolo accounts for only 3% of Piedmont's wine production: the late-ripening grape is difficult to grow, some say harder than Pinot Noir, and it requires the best soils and best exposures, which means hilltops and south-facing slopes.
The most prestigious areas producing Nebbiolo wines are Barolo, southwest of Alba, and Barbaresco, east of Alba. Barbaresco wines are usually regarded as more elegant and refined while Barolos are thought to be more robust and longer-lived.
We first tasted the 2000 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco. The wine had a brick red color and an attractive forward nose. The palate was concentrated with some earthy and sweet fruit flavors. The finish was well balanced with some lively acidity. A very fine wine.In comparison, the 2001 Barolo Mauro Molino had a powerful nose and a lot of concentration and richness on the palate. The wine was still tannic with some vanilla notes and a long lingering aftertaste. This was, without any doubt, the best wine of the tasting.We ended the class on a light sparkling note. The 2004 Birbèt Cascina Ca'Rossa is an amazing low-alcohol (5%), sweet red sparkling wine made from Brachetto, another Piedmontese grape. The wine had a bright ruby-pink color and was full of berry aromas. On the palate, the bubbles were light and fresh. It reminded me of a Kir royal, a cocktail made with sparkling wine and crème de cassis. Everybody loved the wine... and the class!
More on Italian wines:
• Sparkling Wines
• The North
• Tuscany
Coming next week: The south and islands
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Tuesday, October 11, 2005
Cellaring: Myths and Realities
The other day, my friend asked me whether she should buy a wine refrigerator for her 50 or so bottles collection. This type of appliance costs at least $500, so is it really worth the spending? For the same amount of money, she could add a case of some excellent Napa Cabernet Sauvignon to her collection. So I advised her to rather find a dark and cool space at her home, such as a closet, a crawlspace, or even a place under the bed. But are these places good enough? What are the right ingredients for good wine storage conditions - knowing that a majority of the wines will likely be consumed within a couple of years of release?
The conventional wisdom advises that wines should be kept at a constant temperature of 55°F (13°C), a humidity level of 70%, and with no vibration, no light and no odor. The science of wine ageing is poorly understood but, in his book Making Sense Of Wine, Matt Kramer offers some good technical explanations for why these requirements are unfounded or, on the contrary, totally justified.
Humidity: according to the common wisdom, humidity is required to keep the cork moist. Matt Kramer argues that it only applies to wood barrels, which were commonly used in private cellars in the 1800s and early 1900s. Wood barrels are porous and a high humidity keeps the wood moist and reduces the amount of evaporation through the pores of the wood. On the contrary, a good cork, compressed to half its size in a bottle, adheres to the glass with a barnaclelike grip. Therefore, the moisture present in the air affects only a tiny portion of the cork, which is too little to change the adherence of the cork to the bottle.
Vibration and movement: traditional thinking contends that continual or chronic vibrations are harmful to wine. In his book, Matt Kramer refers to some studies made at UC Davis by Dr Simpleton, showing that vibrations have little consequence on wine. Dr Simpleton concluded that “the only bad feature about vibration is possibly in dispersing sediments.” Here again, the possibly harmful effect of movement seems to only apply to wine in barrels. Because the wood is porous, oxidation increases when the wine is shaken. This is the famous case of these Bordeaux wines, originally tough and tannic, traveling to the Indies aboard sailing ships and coming back, miraculously fully mature and ready to drink. This started a trend in the 1800s to build devices that would agitate the wine and give it a mature taste called “Retour des Indes” or “Return from the Indies”.
Temperature: The effect of heat on the quality of wine is today pretty well understood. Heat speeds up the chemical reactions within the bottle, causing the wine to age prematurely. For example, a wine stored at 73°F (23°C) will age twice as fast as a wine stored at 55°F (13°C). This could actually be advantageous when cellaring space is a problem. A wine that would need 10 years to mature in a cold cellar, could be enjoyed after 5 years or so if stored in a warmer place. Although some wines are more delicate than others and each type of wine responds to temperature differently, high temperatures can deteriorate wine rapidly. The wine loses its fruitness, gets oxidized and develops cooked aromas.
On the other hand, cold temperatures, which slow down chemical reactions, have little impact on wine, until the wine freezing point is reached, around 27°F (-3°C). The wintertime low, but non freezing, temperatures have no detrimental affect on wine and temperature fluctuation should only be a concern toward the high range.
Light: light, especially sunlight because of its intensity, excites wine molecules. Like heat, it creates chemical reactions that degrade color, aromas and tannins. Regarding artificial light, research has shown that it has a lesser impact. It was found that the wine had to be very close to the source of artificial light and exposed constantly to it to present any harmful effects.
Unfortunately, if your wines have deteriorated because of poor storage conditions, you can always use the Catania Wine Enhancer!
Some Web resources:
• 30 Second Wine Advisor: Cellar-less aging
• Wine, collecting
• The Ideal Wine Cellar
• Storing Wine
• CELLARING ...preserving the flavors while postponing the pleasure...
• How to Cellar Wine
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
The conventional wisdom advises that wines should be kept at a constant temperature of 55°F (13°C), a humidity level of 70%, and with no vibration, no light and no odor. The science of wine ageing is poorly understood but, in his book Making Sense Of Wine, Matt Kramer offers some good technical explanations for why these requirements are unfounded or, on the contrary, totally justified.Humidity: according to the common wisdom, humidity is required to keep the cork moist. Matt Kramer argues that it only applies to wood barrels, which were commonly used in private cellars in the 1800s and early 1900s. Wood barrels are porous and a high humidity keeps the wood moist and reduces the amount of evaporation through the pores of the wood. On the contrary, a good cork, compressed to half its size in a bottle, adheres to the glass with a barnaclelike grip. Therefore, the moisture present in the air affects only a tiny portion of the cork, which is too little to change the adherence of the cork to the bottle.
Vibration and movement: traditional thinking contends that continual or chronic vibrations are harmful to wine. In his book, Matt Kramer refers to some studies made at UC Davis by Dr Simpleton, showing that vibrations have little consequence on wine. Dr Simpleton concluded that “the only bad feature about vibration is possibly in dispersing sediments.” Here again, the possibly harmful effect of movement seems to only apply to wine in barrels. Because the wood is porous, oxidation increases when the wine is shaken. This is the famous case of these Bordeaux wines, originally tough and tannic, traveling to the Indies aboard sailing ships and coming back, miraculously fully mature and ready to drink. This started a trend in the 1800s to build devices that would agitate the wine and give it a mature taste called “Retour des Indes” or “Return from the Indies”.
Temperature: The effect of heat on the quality of wine is today pretty well understood. Heat speeds up the chemical reactions within the bottle, causing the wine to age prematurely. For example, a wine stored at 73°F (23°C) will age twice as fast as a wine stored at 55°F (13°C). This could actually be advantageous when cellaring space is a problem. A wine that would need 10 years to mature in a cold cellar, could be enjoyed after 5 years or so if stored in a warmer place. Although some wines are more delicate than others and each type of wine responds to temperature differently, high temperatures can deteriorate wine rapidly. The wine loses its fruitness, gets oxidized and develops cooked aromas.
On the other hand, cold temperatures, which slow down chemical reactions, have little impact on wine, until the wine freezing point is reached, around 27°F (-3°C). The wintertime low, but non freezing, temperatures have no detrimental affect on wine and temperature fluctuation should only be a concern toward the high range.
Light: light, especially sunlight because of its intensity, excites wine molecules. Like heat, it creates chemical reactions that degrade color, aromas and tannins. Regarding artificial light, research has shown that it has a lesser impact. It was found that the wine had to be very close to the source of artificial light and exposed constantly to it to present any harmful effects.
Unfortunately, if your wines have deteriorated because of poor storage conditions, you can always use the Catania Wine Enhancer!
Some Web resources:
• 30 Second Wine Advisor: Cellar-less aging
• Wine, collecting
• The Ideal Wine Cellar
• Storing Wine
• CELLARING ...preserving the flavors while postponing the pleasure...
• How to Cellar Wine
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Monday, October 10, 2005
A premature ageing device for wines
In Japan, Hiroshi Tanaka has spent 15 years developing an electrolysis device that simulates the effect of ageing in wines. He claims that “in 15 seconds it can transform the cheapest, youngest plonks into fine old draughts as fruit flavours are enhanced and rough edges are mellowed.”
You can read this story called Premature ageing device that puts old wine in new bottles in today's edition of Times Online.
Mr Tanaka’s machine pumps wine and tap water into an electrolysis chamber where hydrogen and oxygen atoms are rearranged around the alcohol molecules witout diluting the wine. This is what would normally take place over years if the wine were ageing naturally.
Mr Tanaka sees different usages for his machine. First, it can be used to improve the quality of wine at the winery. In restaurants, it could instantly improve the taste of cheaper table wines. He also thinks that individual wine lovers will want to have a version of the machine at home to transform wines that need cellaring time and make them ready to drink sooner.
The Times tasting panel in Tokio tested the device on two wines:
The 2002 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Pinot Noir was crisp, fruity, lots of berry, silky, alcoholic nose with a light body and rated 2/5 before electrolysis.
After electrolysis, it tasted more subtle, more musty, lost its crisp, fresh fruitiness but far easier on the palate, heavier but less exciting and was rated 3/5.
The 2001 Le Haut-Médoc de Giscours Grande Réserve was a bit rough and acidic, with muscular tannins and non-distinct bouquet and rated 1/5 before electrolysis.
After electrolysis, it had more of a nose, more tobacco and fruit, a riper flavour, smoother finish and was rated 2.5/5.
Scary, isn't it?
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
You can read this story called Premature ageing device that puts old wine in new bottles in today's edition of Times Online.
Mr Tanaka’s machine pumps wine and tap water into an electrolysis chamber where hydrogen and oxygen atoms are rearranged around the alcohol molecules witout diluting the wine. This is what would normally take place over years if the wine were ageing naturally.
Mr Tanaka sees different usages for his machine. First, it can be used to improve the quality of wine at the winery. In restaurants, it could instantly improve the taste of cheaper table wines. He also thinks that individual wine lovers will want to have a version of the machine at home to transform wines that need cellaring time and make them ready to drink sooner.
The Times tasting panel in Tokio tested the device on two wines:
The 2002 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Pinot Noir was crisp, fruity, lots of berry, silky, alcoholic nose with a light body and rated 2/5 before electrolysis.
After electrolysis, it tasted more subtle, more musty, lost its crisp, fresh fruitiness but far easier on the palate, heavier but less exciting and was rated 3/5.
The 2001 Le Haut-Médoc de Giscours Grande Réserve was a bit rough and acidic, with muscular tannins and non-distinct bouquet and rated 1/5 before electrolysis.
After electrolysis, it had more of a nose, more tobacco and fruit, a riper flavour, smoother finish and was rated 2.5/5.
Scary, isn't it?
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Friday, October 07, 2005
Course on Italian wines at Incanto: Tuscany
The third session of the Italian wines course, organized by Incanto, was about Tuscany. This beautiful region, well known for its hills covered with olive trees, cypress trees, vines and villas, has now become one of Italy's most dynamic producer of premium wines. Even if I was already familiar with the region, Tuscan wines have unique flavors, and, when they are well-made, they are a great pleasure to drink.The first wine we tasted was a white wine from the Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG, a hilly area around the famous medieval village of San Gimignano. Vernaccia is the local white varietal, which, in its modern version, produces a light and crisp wine. The 2004 Vernaccia di San Gimignano Casa Alle Vache had a light golden color and a mild floral nose. On the palate, it was dry and crisp with additional citrus aromas. A light summer wine to drink under the pergola...
Our second wine was a white version of a Super Tuscan. A Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc blend, the 2001 Querciabella Batàr is a reference to Bâtard-Montrachet, and is made in a Burgundy style, aged in half new, half one year old, French oak barrels. The color was deep golden with an attractive nose of pear, apple and citrus. On the palate, it was full-bodied with a fat mouthfeel and a lingering finish.
With the third wine we moved to Chianti Classico, the very heart of Tuscany. The principal red varietal of the region is Sangiovese, the blood of Jove. The 2002 Chianti Classico Le Corti was a dark garnet wine with an attractive nose of black fruit aromas. On the palate, it was full-bodied, with firm tannins and a lively acidity. The finish was long with a bitter cocoa powder aftertaste. A truly delicious wine!
The newly created Bolgheri DOC, is a rising star on the Etruscan coast. The 2003 Campo al Mare Folonari is a classic Bordeaux blend but offering unique flavors that I found hard to describe. It had a dark purple color and a nose of blackberry and licorice. On the plalate, it was smooth but dense and full-bodied.
From the beautiful small town of Montalcino, we tasted a Rosso di Montalcino and a Brunello di Montalcino. It was interesting to taste the two wines side by side because they are both 100% Sangiovese Grosso, a local clone of the Sangiovese grape, but while Brunello wines are powerful and destined for lengthy aging, Rosso di Montalcino wines are characterized by a certain freshness and vivacity, and are made to be drunk young.
The 2001 Rosso di Montalcino Val di Suga had a lively nose with sweet fruits on the palate and a medium body. It was a pleasant and well crafted wine but it did not have the complexity of the 1998 Brunello di Montalcino La Palazzetta. The Brunello had a dense nose of fruit liqueur, a concentrated body with minty flavors and a long, tannic finish.
More on Tuscany wine tasting:
• Wines from Brunello di Montalcino
• Wines of Tuscany
More on Italian wines:
• Sparkling Wines
• The North
Coming next week: Piedmont
Technorati tags: wine food & drink
Wednesday, October 05, 2005
Will your car be happier with some nice French Chardonnay?
“Do you want to try what will be going into your tank?” asks Olivier Gibelin, snifing a glass of deep red wine. This story, A wine of character served up at the gas pump, is in today's edition of the International Herald Tribune. With French wine in crisis and the worldwide overproduction, France is now distilling some of its AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) wines into fuel.
The wine is first turned into ethanol, and then sold to oil refineries, where it is used as a gasoline additive. This is part of a European campaign to increase the use of renewable fuels. By 2010, the pourcentage of ethanol in French gasoline is supposed to reach 5.75%.
France exports some of its gasoline to the United States, so, sometime next year, some Americans will be pumping gas containing a small amount of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir...Read the full story.
Technorati tags: wine food & drink
The wine is first turned into ethanol, and then sold to oil refineries, where it is used as a gasoline additive. This is part of a European campaign to increase the use of renewable fuels. By 2010, the pourcentage of ethanol in French gasoline is supposed to reach 5.75%.
France exports some of its gasoline to the United States, so, sometime next year, some Americans will be pumping gas containing a small amount of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir...Read the full story.
Technorati tags: wine food & drink
Monday, October 03, 2005
WBW14: The Pinot Noir was white!
For the theme of the fourteenth edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday, and my second participation, Jens of Cincinnati Wine Garage proposed a New New-World Pinot Noir. The idea was to try “a Pinot Noir from someplace other than France or the West Coast of the United States -- New New World.” Jens suggested some other wine regions like Chile, Spain, Australia and New York, as “a great opportunity to explore an old varietal in some new locations and then compare them to the usual suspects.” Being in an Italian mood these days (and if Spain is in the list, why not Italy?), It seemed to me that Pinot Nero, a type of wine that is still largely undervalued and unknown, would fit the definition perfectly. Italy can be one of the oldest wine countries of the world, it sees today more revolutionary changes than many New World wine regions. 
My New Old-World Pinot Noir came from Oltrepò Pavese, an appellation located on the right bank of the Po river, in southwestern Lombardy. Oltrepò Pavese is not a very well-known wine region even if it has been one of Lombardy's most productive area since the Middle Ages. In these times, a large part of the wine production was shipped down the Po river to nearby Pavia, and then to Milan, which already represented an important consumer market. The region is also a leading source of Pinot Nero, often vinified in white to be used in local sparkling wines. But the 2003 Torti Pinot Nero, Vinificato in Bianco was not sparkling. I found the wine to be original with very distinctive aromas. It had a light golden yellow color, with a mild nose. On the palate, it was dry and mineral with some toasty aromas, surprisingly almost like a Champagne that would have lost its bubbles.
I was not as impressed with the other Pinot Nero of the evening, the 2002 Niedrist Blauburgunder, a real red wine this time. It came from Alto Adige, Italy's most northerly wine region, at the border of Austria. This is a German speaking country where Pinot Noir is called Blauburgunder. Most of the vineyards are steep and terraced, and lie along the Adige river and the Isarco Valley. With fresh summers, and hard winters, this is a cool place to grow Pinot Noir. It usually produces wines with moderate body and light fruity flavors. But this wine was different. It had a dark color, a subdued nose, oaky flavors on the palate, and not the fresh fruity aromas and the liveliness that I was expecting. With the wine, we ate a pork roast with apple and potatoes, a somewhat German-inspired recipe.We went back to our Pinot Nero Bianco with the dessert, a simple but delicious galette called Broyé du Poitou. Broyé means crushed because the cake is so hard that according to the local tradition, you have to punch it with your fist to break it. The wine worked surprisingly well with the cake and we finished the all bottle...and the cake too!
Technorati tags: wine food & drink wine blogging wednesday wbw
Friday, September 30, 2005
Course on Italian wines at Incanto: Wines from the North
The second session of the Italian wines course, organized by Incanto, was about the wines of Northern Italy, more specifically from the regions of Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and Alto Adige. For me, this class was very interesting and enjoyable as it gave me the opportunity to taste wines made from Garganega, Tocai Friuliano, Picolit , Refosco, and Lagrein, for the first time.
Veneto is an ancient wine growing region, which is now Italy's largest producer of wine. It is believed that grapes have been cultivated around Verona since the Bronze Age. North of the city, vineyards stretch from the town of Soave to the beautiful shores of Lake Garda. These gentle hills enjoy a mild climate thanks to the temperate influence of the lake. This is where Valpolicella is produced, a red blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Air-dried Corvina grapes are also used to make the renowned Amarone della Valpolicella, a highly concentrated and powerful wine. Soave, made from the native varietal Garganega, is the local white wine and the most popular of all Italian dry whites. Although its most common version, usually produced by big firm or cooperatives, is rather bland, quality-focused estates are now crafting wines of distinct character thanks to a more discriminating selection of vines and vinification of single vineyards.
From the Veneto region, we tasted this delicious Suave Classico Superiore:
The 2003 Gini Soave Classico Superiore La Frosca showed a bright straw color. The nose was aromatic with notes of grapefruit and honey. On the palate, it was supple, slightly smoky and oaky, with a fat mouthfeel.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia is Italy's eastern most territory, bordering Austria, Slovenia, and the Adriatic Sea. Thanks to the exchange of air currents between the Alps and the Adriatic, the climate of this area is quite favorable to the culture of vines. With the introduction of improved vineyard techniques and modern winemaking processes, this dynamic region is now renowned for making a new style of white wines, as well as impressive reds. Lying in the hills along Italy's eastern border, Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli are the two most prominent appellations of the region. The dominant native white grape is Tocai Friuliano, but other international varietals are also used, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Grigio and Riesling. The red varietals are Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Nero and Refosco. Refosco is actually the Mondeuse grape, a varietal that originated in the Alpine region of Savoie.
From the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, we tasted:
2004 Volpe Pasini Tocai Friulano Zuc di Volpe: the nose displayed citrus aromas with a faint petroleum note. On the palate, it was fizzy, light-bodied with a fresh and mineral finish. This would be a great wine to serve with appetizers or during a light summer lunch.
2002 Venica & Venica Tre Vignis: this wine is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the rare Picolit grape, a varietal used in Grappa and producing a local dessert wine. Showing a deep golden color, the wine had a nose of white flower, citrus and ripe peach. On the palate, it was full-bodied with a multi-layered complexity on the finish.
2002 Volpe Pasini Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Zuc di Volpe: the wine had a deep red color and a mild berry nose. It was structured on the palate with a firm backbone. The finish was well-balanced and elegant, with flavors somewhat reminiscent of a Cabernet Franc.
Alto Adige, which is also known as Südtyrol, enjoys a privileged position, culturally and climatically. It is the southern tip of Austria's Tyrol and Italy's most northernly wine region. It became an Italian territory only in 1919, when Austria ceded Südtirol to Italy, and German is still the most spoken language. A majority of the vineyards, often steep and terraced, lie along the Adige river and the Isarco Valley. Winters are cold and snowy and spring frosts are always a risk for the vines, but the wide temperature fluctuations between day and night are favorable to the white varietals imported from Germany and Austria. Red grapes like the native Schiava and Lagrein, as well as the more international Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero, grow in the region's warmest sites.
From the Alto Adige region, we tasted:
2003 Cantina Produttori Valle Isarco Pinot Grigio Valle Isarco Alto Adige: the wine had a bright color, a mild nose with citrus, yellow peach, and honey aromas. On the palate, it was dry, mineral and very lively. A well crafted Pinot Grigio.
2003 Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof Lagrein: this red wine had a deep garnet color with a fruity and peppery nose. On the palate, it was smooth with some lively acidity, but spicy, like a lighter version of a Rhone Valley Syrah.
The next class will be about the wines of Tuscany.
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Veneto is an ancient wine growing region, which is now Italy's largest producer of wine. It is believed that grapes have been cultivated around Verona since the Bronze Age. North of the city, vineyards stretch from the town of Soave to the beautiful shores of Lake Garda. These gentle hills enjoy a mild climate thanks to the temperate influence of the lake. This is where Valpolicella is produced, a red blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Air-dried Corvina grapes are also used to make the renowned Amarone della Valpolicella, a highly concentrated and powerful wine. Soave, made from the native varietal Garganega, is the local white wine and the most popular of all Italian dry whites. Although its most common version, usually produced by big firm or cooperatives, is rather bland, quality-focused estates are now crafting wines of distinct character thanks to a more discriminating selection of vines and vinification of single vineyards.From the Veneto region, we tasted this delicious Suave Classico Superiore:The 2003 Gini Soave Classico Superiore La Frosca showed a bright straw color. The nose was aromatic with notes of grapefruit and honey. On the palate, it was supple, slightly smoky and oaky, with a fat mouthfeel.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia is Italy's eastern most territory, bordering Austria, Slovenia, and the Adriatic Sea. Thanks to the exchange of air currents between the Alps and the Adriatic, the climate of this area is quite favorable to the culture of vines. With the introduction of improved vineyard techniques and modern winemaking processes, this dynamic region is now renowned for making a new style of white wines, as well as impressive reds. Lying in the hills along Italy's eastern border, Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli are the two most prominent appellations of the region. The dominant native white grape is Tocai Friuliano, but other international varietals are also used, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Grigio and Riesling. The red varietals are Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Nero and Refosco. Refosco is actually the Mondeuse grape, a varietal that originated in the Alpine region of Savoie. From the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, we tasted:
2004 Volpe Pasini Tocai Friulano Zuc di Volpe: the nose displayed citrus aromas with a faint petroleum note. On the palate, it was fizzy, light-bodied with a fresh and mineral finish. This would be a great wine to serve with appetizers or during a light summer lunch.2002 Venica & Venica Tre Vignis: this wine is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the rare Picolit grape, a varietal used in Grappa and producing a local dessert wine. Showing a deep golden color, the wine had a nose of white flower, citrus and ripe peach. On the palate, it was full-bodied with a multi-layered complexity on the finish.2002 Volpe Pasini Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Zuc di Volpe: the wine had a deep red color and a mild berry nose. It was structured on the palate with a firm backbone. The finish was well-balanced and elegant, with flavors somewhat reminiscent of a Cabernet Franc.Alto Adige, which is also known as Südtyrol, enjoys a privileged position, culturally and climatically. It is the southern tip of Austria's Tyrol and Italy's most northernly wine region. It became an Italian territory only in 1919, when Austria ceded Südtirol to Italy, and German is still the most spoken language. A majority of the vineyards, often steep and terraced, lie along the Adige river and the Isarco Valley. Winters are cold and snowy and spring frosts are always a risk for the vines, but the wide temperature fluctuations between day and night are favorable to the white varietals imported from Germany and Austria. Red grapes like the native Schiava and Lagrein, as well as the more international Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Nero, grow in the region's warmest sites.From the Alto Adige region, we tasted:
2003 Cantina Produttori Valle Isarco Pinot Grigio Valle Isarco Alto Adige: the wine had a bright color, a mild nose with citrus, yellow peach, and honey aromas. On the palate, it was dry, mineral and very lively. A well crafted Pinot Grigio.
2003 Tiefenbrunner Castel Turmhof Lagrein: this red wine had a deep garnet color with a fruity and peppery nose. On the palate, it was smooth with some lively acidity, but spicy, like a lighter version of a Rhone Valley Syrah.The next class will be about the wines of Tuscany.
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Monday, September 26, 2005
Travelers' Tales and Adventures in Wine
The other day, I was not feeling well, so I stayed all day in bed, reading Adventures in Wine: True Stories of Vineyards and Vintages Around the World.
I really recommend this book, a great collection of wine stories, sometimes witty, sometimes funny, sometimes inspiring, but always warm-hearted.In Etymology of a wine lover, we learn how the author, Jan Morris, became a wine lover during one special Australian Summer day, with a glass of white wine, a simple paté, some cheese and an apple.
We learn how to order the proper wine in Italian restaurants in Italy in Fiasco, thanks to David Darlington, and How to Conquer a Wine List, thanks to Kit Snedaker.
“What was the best wine you ever tasted, the one you will always remember?&rdquo asks Gerald Asher in Remembrance of Wines Past. For him, it was an unknown vino rosso, in a simple Lake Maggiore inn, ruby bright, sweetly exotic, lively, with a long glossy finish.
A Tale of Two Meals by Kermit Lynch, in which an American merchant turns the tables on a French chef, is just hilarious.
And what about sharing the stress of Drinking an 1806 Château Lafite with Robert Daley?
But you can always concur with Richard Sterling that Sometimes a Man Just Needs a Drink.
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Saturday, September 24, 2005
Merlot tasting: L'Ecole No 41 is a winner!
“If anyone orders Merlot, I am leaving.” is a famous quote from a famous Pinot Noir lover, but does Merlot deserve this critical assessment? As a reality check, I had a recent tasting of ten different Merlots at a friend's place, five from California, three from Washington State, one from Chile, and one from Italy.
That evening, I found most of the California Merlots to be fruit bombs with a high degree of alcohol, and powerful flavors of stewed fruit and sweet oak. They were also the wines that most people preferred, completely overshadowing the other Merlots, especially the ones from Chile and Italy. This reminded me of the Low-Cut Dress Syndrome that Matt Kramer describes in his book Making Sense of Wine, referring to the fact that in parties, men would always be drawn to women with low-cut dress.
The wines that I preferred that evening came from L'Ecole Nº 41. This Washington State winery is located in an old schoolhouse, in historic Frenchtown. This is a small community just west of Walla Walla, and founded by French-Canadian immigrants in the early 1800s. The winery's winemaking philosophy is to produce well-balanced wines, good acidity, firm but not over-powering tannins, complementary oak extraction, and vibrant, expressive aromas and fruit flavors. The 1999 L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot Columbia Valley had an attractive nose full of berry flavors. On the palate, it was dense but smooth, complex and well-balanced. It was an extremely enjoyable wine, and also very food-friendly. Its little brother, the 2000 L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot Columbia Valley, was richer and sweeter than the 1999 but maybe not as smooth. Overall, I think that I had a slight preference for the 1999.
Here are the wines that we tasted:
1999 Mietz Merlot Sonoma County
2001 Richardson Merlot Sangiacomo Vineyard Los Carneros
2001 Ledson Merlot Sonoma Valley
1999 Merryvale Reserve Merlot
1995 Hanna Merlot Alexander Valley
2002 Sineann Merlot Hillside Vineyard Columbia Valley
2000 L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot Columbia Valley
1999 L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot Columbia Valley
2002 Casa Lapostolle Merlot Cuvée Alexandre
2003 Ermacora Merlot
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
That evening, I found most of the California Merlots to be fruit bombs with a high degree of alcohol, and powerful flavors of stewed fruit and sweet oak. They were also the wines that most people preferred, completely overshadowing the other Merlots, especially the ones from Chile and Italy. This reminded me of the Low-Cut Dress Syndrome that Matt Kramer describes in his book Making Sense of Wine, referring to the fact that in parties, men would always be drawn to women with low-cut dress.
“You're tasting, say, two dozens or more red wines at one sitting. No matter how conscious you are of trying to give each wine its due, you will be always drawn to the wine with the deepest color and the most open, accessible, attractive "nose" , or scent.[...] This is the low-cut dress syndrome. The darkest, biggest, richest, good wines with the greatest accessibility always score highest. Always. They are the low-cut dress wines.”
The wines that I preferred that evening came from L'Ecole Nº 41. This Washington State winery is located in an old schoolhouse, in historic Frenchtown. This is a small community just west of Walla Walla, and founded by French-Canadian immigrants in the early 1800s. The winery's winemaking philosophy is to produce well-balanced wines, good acidity, firm but not over-powering tannins, complementary oak extraction, and vibrant, expressive aromas and fruit flavors. The 1999 L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot Columbia Valley had an attractive nose full of berry flavors. On the palate, it was dense but smooth, complex and well-balanced. It was an extremely enjoyable wine, and also very food-friendly. Its little brother, the 2000 L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot Columbia Valley, was richer and sweeter than the 1999 but maybe not as smooth. Overall, I think that I had a slight preference for the 1999. Here are the wines that we tasted:
1999 Mietz Merlot Sonoma County
2001 Richardson Merlot Sangiacomo Vineyard Los Carneros
2001 Ledson Merlot Sonoma Valley
1999 Merryvale Reserve Merlot
1995 Hanna Merlot Alexander Valley
2002 Sineann Merlot Hillside Vineyard Columbia Valley
2000 L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot Columbia Valley
1999 L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot Columbia Valley
2002 Casa Lapostolle Merlot Cuvée Alexandre
2003 Ermacora Merlot
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Tuesday, September 20, 2005
Course on Italian wines at Incanto: Italian sparkling wines
I heard about the wine course on Italian wines organized by Incanto from a friend, and thought that this would be a good opportunity for me to learn more about - and taste - Italian wines. For a long time, my experience with Italian wines was limited to that bottle of light Chianti ordered in pizzerias. But the times have changed and Italy is now experiencing a wine renaissance. From Alto Adige to Sicilia, the country produces more and more high quality wines of unique character, many from indigenous grapes that do not grow elsewhere.
Incanto is a friendly Italian restaurant in San Francisco's Noe Valley district with a wine list comprised entirely of Italian wines. The 6 weeks course is designed and run by Incanto's Wine Director, Edward Ruiz. Our first class occurred last Saturday and was dedicated to sparkling wines.
After an informative general introduction on Italian wines, we discussed and tasted four sparkling wines, two from the Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC and two from the Franciacorta DOCG.
Wines from the Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC are made with at least 85% of Prosecco, a variety that has been cultivated in the Valdobbiadene cool pre-alpine hills for two centuries. Valdobbiadene produces the best quality Prosecco, and, because of its reasonable price and freshness, is one of Italy's most popular sparkling wine.
The first wine that we tasted was the Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Drusian. Showing a light color and citrus aromas on the nose, the wine was dry and crisp, with tingling bubbles on the palate. The finish was fresh with slightly bitter aromas. It was a very pleasant wine and should be an excellent aperitif.
The second Prosecco was very different. The Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Cartizze Bisol comes from the Cru Cartizze, a small, hilly, and stony place, with a constant humidity, and where the Prosecco grapes ripen slowly. The wine had a deeper color than the first one. It exhibited an aromatic floral nose and sweet ripe fruit on the palate. I found it rather dense and rich for a Prosecco, although I think that I preferred the fresher and crisper style of the first one. Because of its sweetness, it should be a good wine to have with pastries or cookies, maybe some almond biscotti...
I never had any wines from Franciacorta before, and I was eager to taste the two following wines. In the past, this region was mostly making still wines but it recently gained some international reputation with the production of sparkling wines made with the Méthode Champenoise. The appellation's authorized varieties are Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, and Pinot Nero.
The first Franciacorta was the Franciacorta Cuvee Brut Bellavista. The wine had a golden color and a fresh nose of green apple. On the palate, it was nutty, yeasty, full of fine bubbles with a finish that I found elegant, lightly bitter and toasty. I really liked this wine that could easily pass for a Champagne.
We ended the tasting with the Franciacorta Prima Cuvee Brut Monte Rossa. The wine had a deep golden color, pear aromas on the nose, with a note of petroleum. On the palate, it was smoky and dense with a persistent finish, although at the end, I still preferred the elegance and refinement of the Bellavista.
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Incanto is a friendly Italian restaurant in San Francisco's Noe Valley district with a wine list comprised entirely of Italian wines. The 6 weeks course is designed and run by Incanto's Wine Director, Edward Ruiz. Our first class occurred last Saturday and was dedicated to sparkling wines.
After an informative general introduction on Italian wines, we discussed and tasted four sparkling wines, two from the Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC and two from the Franciacorta DOCG.
Wines from the Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC are made with at least 85% of Prosecco, a variety that has been cultivated in the Valdobbiadene cool pre-alpine hills for two centuries. Valdobbiadene produces the best quality Prosecco, and, because of its reasonable price and freshness, is one of Italy's most popular sparkling wine.
The first wine that we tasted was the Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Drusian. Showing a light color and citrus aromas on the nose, the wine was dry and crisp, with tingling bubbles on the palate. The finish was fresh with slightly bitter aromas. It was a very pleasant wine and should be an excellent aperitif.
The second Prosecco was very different. The Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Cartizze Bisol comes from the Cru Cartizze, a small, hilly, and stony place, with a constant humidity, and where the Prosecco grapes ripen slowly. The wine had a deeper color than the first one. It exhibited an aromatic floral nose and sweet ripe fruit on the palate. I found it rather dense and rich for a Prosecco, although I think that I preferred the fresher and crisper style of the first one. Because of its sweetness, it should be a good wine to have with pastries or cookies, maybe some almond biscotti...
I never had any wines from Franciacorta before, and I was eager to taste the two following wines. In the past, this region was mostly making still wines but it recently gained some international reputation with the production of sparkling wines made with the Méthode Champenoise. The appellation's authorized varieties are Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, and Pinot Nero.
The first Franciacorta was the Franciacorta Cuvee Brut Bellavista. The wine had a golden color and a fresh nose of green apple. On the palate, it was nutty, yeasty, full of fine bubbles with a finish that I found elegant, lightly bitter and toasty. I really liked this wine that could easily pass for a Champagne.
We ended the tasting with the Franciacorta Prima Cuvee Brut Monte Rossa. The wine had a deep golden color, pear aromas on the nose, with a note of petroleum. On the palate, it was smoky and dense with a persistent finish, although at the end, I still preferred the elegance and refinement of the Bellavista.Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Monday, September 19, 2005
Dine out and support Katrina relief efforts
On October 5, 2005 the National Restaurant Association and restaurants across the country will band together in a "Dine for America" day, a national fundraising effort to support the American Red Cross Disaster Relief Fund and help those affected by Hurricane Katrina. For participating restaurants in your area visit dineforamerica.org.
Technorati tags:: wine food food & drink
Technorati tags:: wine food food & drink
Saturday, September 17, 2005
2002 Savennières Cuvée des Genêts Domaine Laureau
This is a Savennières that I drank recently. I really liked it and also found it reasonably priced. Savennières is a small but distinctive appellation of the Loire Valley. The wines, made from Chenin Blanc, are highly concentrated and age-worthy. Although sweet in the past, they are mostly made dry now.
Chenin Blanc is a widely under-estimated variety with, according to Jancis Robinson, only 9,000 ha planted in its birthplace the Loire, 22,000 in South Africa, 500 in Australia, 200 in New Zealand, 3,600 in Argentina and 8,000 ha in the United States.
Damien Laureau is a promising young winemaker who has taken over 6 hectares of vines from his uncle who was heading into retirement. He recently enjoyed some well deserved recognition with his exceptional Savennières cuvées from the 2002 vintage. The Cuvée des Genêts is made from its youngest vines (20-40 year old), growing on schist and quartz. It is a 100% Chenin Blanc wine, 90% aged in tank and 10% in wood for 18 months.
A Savennières can be austere in its youth but the 2002 Savennières Cuvée des Genêts Domaine Laureau is ready to drink now. The color is bright golden. The nose is mineral and lively. On the palate, it offers a crisp and dense mouthfeel with green apple aromas, followed by a fresh honeyed finish. This delicious wine works wonderfully with Greek taramosalata.
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Thursday, September 15, 2005
Oregon Chardonnay: saved by a new clone?
No, this is not another attack of the clones from a Star Wars sequel! The story - an article from Decanter's Norm Roby in the September edition of the magazine - is about establishing Oregon's reputation as a producer of premium Chardonnay thanks to new plantings of Dijon clones. Difficult to ripen, Chardonnay was not doing well in Oregon, and consequently, Pinot Gris quickly became the state's preferred white varietal. But the problem was not the grape or the terroir, just the clones, as it is explained on the Chehalem Winery's website:
After reading the article, I felt the need to make my own opinion, so yesterday, I bought and tasted a couple of 100% dijon clone Oregon Chardonnays. I chose one from Chehalem Winery and the other one from Ponzi Vineyards.
Chehalem belongs to a group of Northern Willamette Valley wineries committed to redefining cool-climate Chardonnay using the Dijon clones in order to produce wines of natural balance, complexity and elegance, combined with vivid acidity. According to the winemaker, the Dijon clones mature earlier, with fully ripe, soft, exotic fruit flavors and a structure that should make jaded ABC palates go back..
We tried their 2004 Chardonnay called INOX™, which is 100% Dijon clones, entirely tank fermented, without malolactic fermentation or lees contact. INOX™ takes its name from the abbreviation of the French word for stainless steel, inoxidable. The wine was conveniently sealed with a screw cap. It had a pale straw color and an aromatic nose with floral notes, citrus, and tropical fruits. On the palate, it was crisp and surprisingly slightly fizzy, with some grapefruit flavors on the finish. I found the wine original and definitively defining a unique style of Oregon Chardonnay.
The other wine was the 2002 Ponzi Reserve Chardonnay Willamette Valley. The winemaker's notes specify that the fruit was whole cluster pressed and the juice moved to French oak barrels (20% new) and fermented in barrel. Malolactic fermentation was spontaneous and 100%. Lees were stirred once a week for six months. After 18 months of barrel age the wine was moved with air to tank for blending then bottled by gravity. The wine had a deeper golden color with a mild nose of sweet white peach. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with butterscotch flavors and a fat mouthfeel. I found the wine pleasant but much more classic in terms of Chardonnay style.
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
“Chardonnay is in the midst of a makeover in Oregon. The key to putting Oregon chardonnay in the same league as great French chardonnays is clones. For years Oregon has grown clones of chardonnay selected for warmer climates, that need longer ripening and acid retention-the opposite of what cool climates need-to only moderate success.[...] Over the last two decades strong cooperation between Burgundians and Oregonians, led by Raymond Bernard and David Adelsheim, respectively, resulted in a number of clones being brought into Oregon State University's clonal importation program. From the clones evaluated and sent through disease testing, the favorites are known by their ID numbers 75, 76, 95 and 96 and have now been propagated into hundreds of acres which have been planted throughout the valley. Enough tonnage has been harvested since the mid 90s to validate our initial impressions of broad flavors, richness and earlier ripening.”
After reading the article, I felt the need to make my own opinion, so yesterday, I bought and tasted a couple of 100% dijon clone Oregon Chardonnays. I chose one from Chehalem Winery and the other one from Ponzi Vineyards.
Chehalem belongs to a group of Northern Willamette Valley wineries committed to redefining cool-climate Chardonnay using the Dijon clones in order to produce wines of natural balance, complexity and elegance, combined with vivid acidity. According to the winemaker, the Dijon clones mature earlier, with fully ripe, soft, exotic fruit flavors and a structure that should make jaded ABC palates go back..We tried their 2004 Chardonnay called INOX™, which is 100% Dijon clones, entirely tank fermented, without malolactic fermentation or lees contact. INOX™ takes its name from the abbreviation of the French word for stainless steel, inoxidable. The wine was conveniently sealed with a screw cap. It had a pale straw color and an aromatic nose with floral notes, citrus, and tropical fruits. On the palate, it was crisp and surprisingly slightly fizzy, with some grapefruit flavors on the finish. I found the wine original and definitively defining a unique style of Oregon Chardonnay.
The other wine was the 2002 Ponzi Reserve Chardonnay Willamette Valley. The winemaker's notes specify that the fruit was whole cluster pressed and the juice moved to French oak barrels (20% new) and fermented in barrel. Malolactic fermentation was spontaneous and 100%. Lees were stirred once a week for six months. After 18 months of barrel age the wine was moved with air to tank for blending then bottled by gravity. The wine had a deeper golden color with a mild nose of sweet white peach. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with butterscotch flavors and a fat mouthfeel. I found the wine pleasant but much more classic in terms of Chardonnay style.Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
Wednesday, September 14, 2005
A Taste of the Santa Cruz Mountains (update)
The wine tasting event that we were preparing last June just happened last Saturday. From the original selection of Santa Cruz Mountains wines, we removed the 2000 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz Mountains and added one more Chardonnay and three red wines.
The Santa Cruz Mountains American Viticultural Area (AVA) encompasses the Santa Cruz Mountain range, from Half Moon Bay in the north, to Mount Madonna in the south. The east and west boundaries are defined by elevation, extending down to 800 feet in the east and 400 feet in the west. Vineyards are generally small and low-yielding. Thanks to the marine influence, the mountain terrain, and distinctive soils, they can produce wines with full and intense flavors.
Wine has been produced in the Santa Cruz Mountains since the 1800s. The region was once known as the Chaîne d'Or (golden chain) for its high-quality fruit, but few of the original wineries survived Prohibition. Now, the region is home to nearly 50 wineries, mostly small and low-key.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the usual cool-climate varietals, shine in this often foggy, mountainous terrain but other grapes also excel, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and Syrah.
We started our tasting with a Chardonnay from Beauregard Vineyards. This is a small winery located in Bonny Doon with a brand new tasting room on the Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf. The winery is focusing on producing small batches of extremely high-quality wines, most of which are grown, made, and bottled entirely in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The Trout Gulch Vineyard is one of the vineyards it sources its wine from. It is located within 4 miles of the Monterey Bay coastline at an altitude of 720 feet above sea level, and enjoys warm temperate days, cooling coastal nights, and a long growing season. The 2003 Beauregard Chardonnay Trout Gulch Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains was truly delicious and was one of the group's favorite. It had a bright straw-yellow color and a pleasant fragrant nose. On the palate, it had a lively acidity with some notes of caramel, minerals and no obvious oak aromas. The finish was well balanced with a lot of freshness and vivacity.
Our second white wine was a Chardonnay from Mount Eden Vineyards. This small winery focuses on small lots of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The estate Chardonnay comes from a low-yielding vineyard located above the fog level at 2,000 feet and about 15 miles from the ocean. The proximity of the ocean keeps the daytime temperature low and allows dry-farming. This wine is considered by many connoisseurs to be one of the longest-lived white wines produced in California. The 2002 Mount Eden Estate Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains had a deep golden color, with an aromatic nose of tropical fruits and notes of honey. The palate was smooth, medium to full-bodied, with additional butterscotch flavors. The finish was pleasant, fresh and not too oaky.
After the whites, we moved to a Pinot Noir from Varner Wine. It is a garage-sized winery owned by two brothers, Bob and Jim Varner. They believe that the best wine comes from winemakers who grow their own grapes and they are entirely devoted to handmade, Santa Cruz appellation Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The 2002 Varner Pinot Noir Hidden Block Santa Cruz Mountains had a medium garnet color. The nose had mild cassis and raspberry aromas, followed by more complex earthy flavors on the palate.
The next wine was a Syrah produced by David Bruce Winery, a Pinot Noir specialist and one of the first winery established in the Santa Cruz Mountains in the early 60's. The 2001 David Bruce Syrah Santa Cruz Mountains was the winner of an earlier Syrah tasting, and that evening, it was also one of the group's favorite red wine. The nose was very fruity and attractive. The palate was well-balanced with a rich, smooth mouthfeel and an elegant finish.
The following wine was a Cabernet Franc from Cooper Garrod Vineyards. The winery is a 28-acre estate specializing in the Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Viognier varietals. The Cabernet Franc vines date back to the original stock brought to the Chaîne d'Or region by French settler and grape expert Pierre C. Pourroy around the turn of the century. Cuttings from the old Pourroy property were planted in 1995 in west-facing slopes at the western edge of the Cooper Garrod property. The 2001 Cooper Garrod Cabernet Franc Francville Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains exhibited blackberry aromas on the nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied, with sweet ripe fruit flavors, oaky aromas and firm tannins.
The next wine was a Cabernet Sauvignon from the winery's Lone Oak Vineyard. It is a south and west-facing vineyard in the northeast corner of the property, planted in 1991. The vineyard is named after a 100-year old California Live Oak, which dominates the vineyard and provides commanding views of Santa Clara valley. The 1999 Cooper Garrod Cabernet Sauvignon Lone Oak Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains was unfortunately not very inspiring. The wine had a mild nose, and on the palate, it did not have enough fruit to counterbalance its acidity. Consequently, the finish was also weak and mostly acidic.
Our next wine was a 1999 Cinnabar Mercury Rising. Cinnabar is a purple-red derivative of mercury that was believed to miraculously transform ordinary metals into silver and gold. Tom Mudd of Cinnabar Vineyards & Winery believes that he can capture the magic of alchemy in his handcrafted wines. The estate is located on the eastern rim of the Santa Cruz Mountains above the town of Saratoga. Mercury Rising is the name of Cinnabar's proprietary Bordeaux-style red wine. In 1999, sources in Napa Valley, Monterey County, Paso Robles, and Santa Clara Valley contributed Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot to the blend. To create a wine of great depth and complexity, lots were fermented separately and then blended. The wine had a dark color, forward fruit on the nose, a dense and full-bodied palate, followed by a well-balanced finish.
We finished the tasting with the 2001 Storrs Zinfandel Rusty Ridge Santa Clara Valley. Storrs Winery is a small winery dedicated to Santa Cruz Mountains wines, mostly Chardonnay and Zinfandel. The grapes for this cool climate Zinfandel were grown in two very old, gnarly vined vineyards on the foothills of the Santa Clara Valley. The wine had a deep garnet color. The nose exhibited strawberry and vanillin aromas. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with spices and sweet fruit flavors. Tannins were still present on the finish. This excellent wine was, at the end, the one that the group preferred.
Visit ManageYourCellar.com - Online Wine Cellar Software
Technorati tags:: wine food & drink
The Santa Cruz Mountains American Viticultural Area (AVA) encompasses the Santa Cruz Mountain range, from Half Moon Bay in the north, to Mount Madonna in the south. The east and west boundaries are defined by elevation, extending down to 800 feet in the east and 400 feet in the west. Vineyards are generally small and low-yielding. Thanks to the marine influence, the mountain terrain, and distinctive soils, they can produce wines with full and intense flavors.
Wine has been produced in the Santa Cruz Mountains since the 1800s. The region was once known as the Chaîne d'Or (golden chain) for its high-quality fruit, but few of the original wineries survived Prohibition. Now, the region is home to nearly 50 wineries, mostly small and low-key.
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the usual cool-climate varietals, shine in this often foggy, mountainous terrain but other grapes also excel, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and Syrah.
We started our tasting with a Chardonnay from Beauregard Vineyards. This is a small winery located in Bonny Doon with a brand new tasting room on the Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf. The winery is focusing on producing small batches of extremely high-quality wines, most of which are grown, made, and bottled entirely in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The Trout Gulch Vineyard is one of the vineyards it sources its wine from. It is located within 4 miles of the Monterey Bay coastline at an altitude of 720 feet above sea level, and enjoys warm temperate days, cooling coastal nights, and a long growing season. The 2003 Beauregard Chardonnay Trout Gulch Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains was truly delicious and was one of the group's favorite. It had a bright straw-yellow color and a pleasant fragrant nose. On the palate, it had a lively acidity with some notes of caramel, minerals and no obvious oak aromas. The finish was well balanced with a lot of freshness and vivacity. Our second white wine was a Chardonnay from Mount Eden Vineyards. This small winery focuses on small lots of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The estate Chardonnay comes from a low-yielding vineyard located above the fog level at 2,000 feet and about 15 miles from the ocean. The proximity of the ocean keeps the daytime temperature low and allows dry-farming. This wine is considered by many connoisseurs to be one of the longest-lived white wines produced in California. The 2002 Mount Eden Estate Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains had a deep golden color, with an aromatic nose of tropical fruits and notes of honey. The palate was smooth, medium to full-bodied, with additional butterscotch flavors. The finish was pleasant, fresh and not too oaky. After the whites, we moved to a Pinot Noir from Varner Wine. It is a garage-sized winery owned by two brothers, Bob and Jim Varner. They believe that the best wine comes from winemakers who grow their own grapes and they are entirely devoted to handmade, Santa Cruz appellation Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The 2002 Varner Pinot Noir Hidden Block Santa Cruz Mountains had a medium garnet color. The nose had mild cassis and raspberry aromas, followed by more complex earthy flavors on the palate. The next wine was a Syrah produced by David Bruce Winery, a Pinot Noir specialist and one of the first winery established in the Santa Cruz Mountains in the early 60's. The The following wine was a Cabernet Franc from Cooper Garrod Vineyards. The winery is a 28-acre estate specializing in the Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Viognier varietals. The Cabernet Franc vines date back to the original stock brought to the Chaîne d'Or region by French settler and grape expert Pierre C. Pourroy around the turn of the century. Cuttings from the old Pourroy property were planted in 1995 in west-facing slopes at the western edge of the Cooper Garrod property. The 2001 Cooper Garrod Cabernet Franc Francville Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains exhibited blackberry aromas on the nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied, with sweet ripe fruit flavors, oaky aromas and firm tannins. The next wine was a Cabernet Sauvignon from the winery's Lone Oak Vineyard. It is a south and west-facing vineyard in the northeast corner of the property, planted in 1991. The vineyard is named after a 100-year old California Live Oak, which dominates the vineyard and provides commanding views of Santa Clara valley. The 1999 Cooper Garrod Cabernet Sauvignon Lone Oak Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains was unfortunately not very inspiring. The wine had a mild nose, and on the palate, it did not have enough fruit to counterbalance its acidity. Consequently, the finish was also weak and mostly acidic. Our next wine was a 1999 Cinnabar Mercury Rising. Cinnabar is a purple-red derivative of mercury that was believed to miraculously transform ordinary metals into silver and gold. Tom Mudd of Cinnabar Vineyards & Winery believes that he can capture the magic of alchemy in his handcrafted wines. The estate is located on the eastern rim of the Santa Cruz Mountains above the town of Saratoga. Mercury Rising is the name of Cinnabar's proprietary Bordeaux-style red wine. In 1999, sources in Napa Valley, Monterey County, Paso Robles, and Santa Clara Valley contributed Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot to the blend. To create a wine of great depth and complexity, lots were fermented separately and then blended. The wine had a dark color, forward fruit on the nose, a dense and full-bodied palate, followed by a well-balanced finish. We finished the tasting with the 2001 Storrs Zinfandel Rusty Ridge Santa Clara Valley. Storrs Winery is a small winery dedicated to Santa Cruz Mountains wines, mostly Chardonnay and Zinfandel. The grapes for this cool climate Zinfandel were grown in two very old, gnarly vined vineyards on the foothills of the Santa Clara Valley. The wine had a deep garnet color. The nose exhibited strawberry and vanillin aromas. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with spices and sweet fruit flavors. Tannins were still present on the finish. This excellent wine was, at the end, the one that the group preferred.Visit ManageYourCellar.com - Online Wine Cellar Software
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